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FirstGrow
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Registered: 07/17/14
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Burnt tips / progressive
#745953 - 09/01/14 06:47 AM (10 years, 2 months ago) |
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I've been seeing yellowing/burnt tips spreading inward and I've had to remove lower leaves which almost completely degenerated.. Not sure what my problem could be.. Potash deficiency? Nute burn?
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bEelzeBosS
Are my eyes red?
Registered: 11/15/13
Posts: 706
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Re: Burnt tips / progressive [Re: FirstGrow]
#745958 - 09/01/14 07:51 AM (10 years, 2 months ago) |
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In my limited experience yellow tips are usually caused from over feeding. Flush it by running 2-3 times the amount of water your planting container will hold then leave it alone for a few days. After several days you should start to notice improvement.
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FirstGrow
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Re: Burnt tips / progressive [Re: bEelzeBosS]
#746000 - 09/01/14 02:41 PM (10 years, 2 months ago) |
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Thanks, mate. Much relieved to know that the only thing I did, has been one of the potential solutions.
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mhbound
Ballin out at all cost
Registered: 09/22/08
Posts: 8,144
Loc: High
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Re: Burnt tips / progressive [Re: FirstGrow]
#746005 - 09/01/14 03:04 PM (10 years, 2 months ago) |
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What kind of soil/nutrients etc are you using? I can sit here and guess all day but that will let me get a little more exact on what I would suggest.
-------------------- Suck my balls America
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FirstGrow
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Re: Burnt tips / progressive [Re: mhbound]
#746062 - 09/02/14 06:26 AM (10 years, 2 months ago) |
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I'm using 2 types of compost and perlite. no additive nutes, yet.
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mhbound
Ballin out at all cost
Registered: 09/22/08
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Re: Burnt tips / progressive [Re: FirstGrow]
#746065 - 09/02/14 07:21 AM (10 years, 2 months ago) |
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Is the perlite miracle grow? Or does it have nutrients in it? Some of them do.
How old are the plants?
Are you checking the pH of your water?
Possible Potassium deficiency but I don't want to say for sure without knowing the answer to the others.
-------------------- Suck my balls America
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FirstGrow
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Re: Burnt tips / progressive [Re: mhbound]
#746095 - 09/02/14 01:00 PM (10 years, 2 months ago) |
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The perlite is just plain. I do know that the composts are nitrogen rich, though.
my mix is "composted azolla/vermicompost/perlite" with the ratio of "2/1/1" (plus some dolomite lime.. pulverized eggshell actually..)
The plants are 45 days old.
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FirstGrow
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Re: Burnt tips / progressive [Re: mhbound]
#746096 - 09/02/14 01:05 PM (10 years, 2 months ago) |
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And yes. I'm been giving them PH adjusted water, but only since I got my hands on a PH meter. My soil PH was 7.5 and I've been leaching and watering the plants with PH 6.0 water.
some more pics, taken today..:
Edited by FirstGrow (09/02/14 01:19 PM)
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lilmafia513
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Re: Burnt tips / progressive [Re: FirstGrow]
#746118 - 09/02/14 05:34 PM (10 years, 2 months ago) |
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Quote:
FirstGrow said: And yes. I'm been giving them PH adjusted water, but only since I got my hands on a PH meter. My soil PH was 7.5 and I've been leaching and watering the plants with PH 6.0 water.
some more pics, taken today..:
1. Get your PH to 6.5, that's my sweet spot every strain i have grown in soil. 2.Follow the advice given on flushing the plant, and letting her wait for at least a week until you see any improvements. 3. How close is your light? She looks a little hot and scorched from the lights also, just what i can see.
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FirstGrow
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Re: Burnt tips / progressive [Re: lilmafia513]
#746149 - 09/03/14 03:20 AM (10 years, 2 months ago) |
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Thanks. Is it possible to lower the soil HP only by PH adjusted leaching?
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mhbound
Ballin out at all cost
Registered: 09/22/08
Posts: 8,144
Loc: High
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Re: Burnt tips / progressive [Re: FirstGrow]
#746178 - 09/03/14 11:47 AM (10 years, 2 months ago) |
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How often are you watering? What is the temp like?
-------------------- Suck my balls America
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FirstGrow
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Re: Burnt tips / progressive [Re: mhbound]
#746183 - 09/03/14 02:15 PM (10 years, 2 months ago) |
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I'm watering every other day When my soil hygrometer goes on red.
The temp is around 30. We had a hot couple of days though and it went up to about 35 around my girls.
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Midgetpawn
Registered: 06/21/13
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Re: Burnt tips / progressive [Re: mhbound]
#746199 - 09/03/14 04:35 PM (10 years, 2 months ago) |
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It might not be any help for this specific problem, but here's some deficiency guide thing jacked out of cannatalk magazine issues and compiled into a pdf.
you can view or dl deficiency mini guide
they don't talk at all about cannabis and it's like 1/3 canna ads, but there's some good grow info in those cannatalk e-zines, which are all free
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lilmafia513
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Re: Burnt tips / progressive [Re: FirstGrow]
#746394 - 09/04/14 08:51 PM (10 years, 2 months ago) |
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Quote:
FirstGrow said: Thanks. Is it possible to lower the soil HP only by PH adjusted leaching?
Well, its best to stabilize soil PH by using lime, You will be adjusting the PH when you water that often. Over time between longer drying times, the PH may change with temps and change of moisture, and change of everything going on inside the dirt. But if you water every 2 days, it should stay pretty stable at what you adjust water PH to while feeding.
As far as a plant problem, check out my plant diagnostics sheet by clicking.....(HERE)
Edited by lilmafia513 (09/04/14 08:53 PM)
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TribalSeed
SoulJah
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Posts: 1,699
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Last seen: 7 years, 11 months
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Re: Burnt tips / progressive [Re: lilmafia513]
#746584 - 09/06/14 12:16 AM (10 years, 2 months ago) |
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Quote:
lilmafia513 said:
Quote:
FirstGrow said: Thanks. Is it possible to lower the soil HP only by PH adjusted leaching?
Well, its best to stabilize soil PH by using lime, You will be adjusting the PH when you water that often. Over time between longer drying times, the PH may change with temps and change of moisture, and change of everything going on inside the dirt. But if you water every 2 days, it should stay pretty stable at what you adjust water PH to while feeding.
As far as a plant problem, check out my plant diagnostics sheet by clicking.....(HERE)
Just wanted to say a quick thanks to you mafia! That guide has saved me a lot of headaches and trial and error. Thanks for the awesome guide bro!
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FirstGrow
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Re: Burnt tips / progressive [Re: lilmafia513]
#746590 - 09/06/14 03:17 AM (10 years, 2 months ago) |
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Quote:
lilmafia513 said:
Quote:
FirstGrow said: Thanks. Is it possible to lower the soil HP only by PH adjusted leaching?
Well, its best to stabilize soil PH by using lime, You will be adjusting the PH when you water that often. Over time between longer drying times, the PH may change with temps and change of moisture, and change of everything going on inside the dirt. But if you water every 2 days, it should stay pretty stable at what you adjust water PH to while feeding.
As far as a plant problem, check out my plant diagnostics sheet by clicking.....(HERE)
Awesome! Thanks, bud!
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FirstGrow
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Here are some new pics. Please tell me of any update in your diagnosis. the yellowing/burnt tips in the new growth is what that's making me most worried..
This one is wrinkled too, aside from having yellowing tips:
Two of the lower leaves which just fell off today:
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GoonerHeClips
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If I grew, I might be able to help. But it doesn't look good.
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Midgetpawn
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whats the compost stuff you're using?
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FirstGrow
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my mix is "composted azolla/vermicompost/perlite" with the ratio of "2/1/1" (plus some dolomite lime.. pulverized eggshell actually..)
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GoonerHeClips
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Quote:
FirstGrow said: my mix is "composted azolla/vermicompost/perlite" with the ratio of "2/1/1" (plus some dolomite lime.. pulverized eggshell actually..)
What kind of water are you using? tap? pH? TDS (total dissolved solids)?
Maybe you've overwatered? Too much calcium, not enough magnesium? Alkaline hard water?
What made you go with such a high amount of the composted azolla? Did you grind your own eggshell or buy it as a product?
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Midgetpawn
Registered: 06/21/13
Posts: 577
Last seen: 4 years, 4 months
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Quote:
FirstGrow said: my mix is "composted azolla/vermicompost/perlite" with the ratio of "2/1/1" (plus some dolomite lime.. pulverized eggshell actually..)
Probably not over feeding then. I was reading through that guide I compiled, and it seems to have almost everything you'd need to know to solve a problem like the one you're having. BTW your problem isn't too bad. The top 3/4 of the plant look ok. They could be pointing upward more though.
Oh and I heard recently that when growing organic, you want to feed something like 2 weeks ahead of the time you're feeding for.
Edit add: using clean RO, filtered, or rain water is actually a lot more important than I used to think it was.
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FirstGrow
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Quote:
GoonerHeClips said:
Quote:
FirstGrow said: my mix is "composted azolla/vermicompost/perlite" with the ratio of "2/1/1" (plus some dolomite lime.. pulverized eggshell actually..)
What kind of water are you using? tap? pH? TDS (total dissolved solids)?
Maybe you've overwatered? Too much calcium, not enough magnesium? Alkaline hard water?
What made you go with such a high amount of the composted azolla? Did you grind your own eggshell or buy it as a product?
Tap water, but only recently PH-adjusted. It was above 7.0 and I've watered them twice during last week with the same tap water though PH was adjusted to 6.5
TDS: 382.8 ppm
I had been over-watering them, I know. But I reconsidered the frequency like 10 days ago. So the burnt tips could actually be caused by that?
I used these specific composts, because they were the only types of potting soil I could get my hands on. I mixed it twice the amount of vermicompost, because I knew the latter was too rich in nitrogen.
Could be not enough Magnesium, but I've been waiting for the nutrients in soil to run out so I can give it water-soluble fert with all the nutes and trace minerals.
And I ground some eggshell for CaCo3.
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Midgetpawn
Registered: 06/21/13
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I suck at identifying my own problems, and I think most problems are PH created intake issues, overwatering, or over feeding, but based on that guide I linked, I'd say it could also be potassium, calcium or iron, and any combination of the 3.
the problem with the tap water is the chlorine and who knows what else is in tap water. I've noticed my cold tap water has about 10 less ppm, than my hot. I guess because the hot water is stored in a hot water heater and accumulate chlorine from when it rains and they add more.
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FirstGrow
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Quote:
Midgetpawn said:
Quote:
FirstGrow said: my mix is "composted azolla/vermicompost/perlite" with the ratio of "2/1/1" (plus some dolomite lime.. pulverized eggshell actually..)
Probably not over feeding then. I was reading through that guide I compiled, and it seems to have almost everything you'd need to know to solve a problem like the one you're having. BTW your problem isn't too bad. The top 3/4 of the plant look ok. They could be pointing upward more though.
Oh and I heard recently that when growing organic, you want to feed something like 2 weeks ahead of the time you're feeding for.
Edit add: using clean RO, filtered, or rain water is actually a lot more important than I used to think it was.
Quote:
Midgetpawn said: I suck at identifying my own problems, and I think most problems are PH created intake issues, overwatering, or over feeding, but based on that guide I linked, I'd say it could also be potassium, calcium or iron, and any combination of the 3.
the problem with the tap water is the chlorine and who knows what else is in tap water. I've noticed my cold tap water has about 10 less ppm, than my hot. I guess because the hot water is stored in a hot water heater and accumulate chlorine from when it rains and they add more.
Alright then. I will leave the water out in the open so the chlorine can be evaporated. And I'll continue watering them with PH-adjusted water and less often.
For the possible deficiencies, I have water-soluble fert which has N-P-K and other elements. but as I said, the soil was already nutrient-rich when I repotted and I'm afraid of giving them too much nitrogen. How long do you think I will need to wait for the compost to run out of nitrogen? It's been 3 weeks already.
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GoonerHeClips
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Registered: 08/24/14
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Quote:
FirstGrow said:
Quote:
GoonerHeClips said:
Quote:
FirstGrow said: my mix is "composted azolla/vermicompost/perlite" with the ratio of "2/1/1" (plus some dolomite lime.. pulverized eggshell actually..)
What kind of water are you using? tap? pH? TDS (total dissolved solids)?
Maybe you've overwatered? Too much calcium, not enough magnesium? Alkaline hard water?
What made you go with such a high amount of the composted azolla? Did you grind your own eggshell or buy it as a product?
Tap water, but only recently PH-adjusted. It was above 7.0 and I've watered them twice during last week with the same tap water though PH was adjusted to 6.5
TDS: 382.8 ppm
I had been over-watering them, I know. But I reconsidered the frequency like 10 days ago. So the burnt tips could actually be caused by that?
I used these specific composts, because they were the only types of potting soil I could get my hands on. I mixed it twice the amount of vermicompost, because I knew the latter was too rich in nitrogen.
Could be not enough Magnesium, but I've been waiting for the nutrients in soil to run out so I can give it water-soluble fert with all the nutes and trace minerals.
And I ground some eggshell for CaCo3.
Dude, the last thing you need with that super hard alkaline water is more calcium. AND, you even added dolomite.
If you can possibly afford one, get an RO system, then add back. Otherwise buy some gallon containers of Crystal Geyser and don't add anything but pH down to 6.0 Almost 400 ppm really is hard, and alkaline water is a killer too. pH 6.5 isn't low enough, go 6.0.
Edited by GoonerHeClips (09/07/14 02:06 PM)
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FirstGrow
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Well, since I can't yet afford an RO system, I went on and bought some gallons of purified water. Hope it'll make a change. Leaf tips of my new growth are still yellowing/burning from the get go.
I'll update after a fortnight of applying the new precautions..
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GoonerHeClips
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Quote:
FirstGrow said: Well, since I can't yet afford an RO system, I went on and bought some gallons of purified water. Hope it'll make a change. Leaf tips of my new growth are still yellowing/burning from the get go.
I'll update after a fortnight of applying the new precautions..
I think there are pitchers that take out most of the solids. You might want to check those out as an alternative to a full blown RO.
I'd try a tsp of epsom salts mixed in good with a gallon of water..
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lilmafia513
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no problem man, thanks for checking it out. The new growth looks a little yellow, but it may be good fresh growth, the new growth should be a light green color as it is younger material. If the yellowing keeps up, as long as you have been using plain water for a few, then start to SLOWLY add nutes to the water. Start at a 1/4 of directions on bottle.
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lilmafia513
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Quote:
FirstGrow said:
Quote:
Midgetpawn said:
Quote:
FirstGrow said: my mix is "composted azolla/vermicompost/perlite" with the ratio of "2/1/1" (plus some dolomite lime.. pulverized eggshell actually..)
Probably not over feeding then. I was reading through that guide I compiled, and it seems to have almost everything you'd need to know to solve a problem like the one you're having. BTW your problem isn't too bad. The top 3/4 of the plant look ok. They could be pointing upward more though.
Oh and I heard recently that when growing organic, you want to feed something like 2 weeks ahead of the time you're feeding for.
Edit add: using clean RO, filtered, or rain water is actually a lot more important than I used to think it was.
Quote:
Midgetpawn said: I suck at identifying my own problems, and I think most problems are PH created intake issues, overwatering, or over feeding, but based on that guide I linked, I'd say it could also be potassium, calcium or iron, and any combination of the 3.
the problem with the tap water is the chlorine and who knows what else is in tap water. I've noticed my cold tap water has about 10 less ppm, than my hot. I guess because the hot water is stored in a hot water heater and accumulate chlorine from when it rains and they add more.
Alright then. I will leave the water out in the open so the chlorine can be evaporated. And I'll continue watering them with PH-adjusted water and less often.
For the possible deficiencies, I have water-soluble fert which has N-P-K and other elements. but as I said, the soil was already nutrient-rich when I repotted and I'm afraid of giving them too much nitrogen. How long do you think I will need to wait for the compost to run out of nitrogen? It's been 3 weeks already.
If you use tap water, its really fine, dont listen to the critics that read somewhere tap water is poison.... I use ONLY TAP WATER, no buying water for high bills and paper trails... Fill 2 gallon jugs with your tap water, use a air pump with 2 air stones on a splitter, and put an air stone in each jug. now, wait 24 hrs before adding anything to the jugs. After 24 hrs take 1 jug, add nutes at introduction rates, and adjust PH accordingly. BAM, ready for watering. You can also wait 24 hrs, add nutes, and wait another 12 hrs, and your PH should adjust by itself if your nutes do so. I used general hydro once and they claimed to have self adjusting PH...
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FirstGrow
Stranger
Registered: 07/17/14
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Last seen: 9 years, 9 months
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Quote:
lilmafia513 said:
Quote:
FirstGrow said:
Quote:
Midgetpawn said:
Quote:
FirstGrow said: my mix is "composted azolla/vermicompost/perlite" with the ratio of "2/1/1" (plus some dolomite lime.. pulverized eggshell actually..)
Probably not over feeding then. I was reading through that guide I compiled, and it seems to have almost everything you'd need to know to solve a problem like the one you're having. BTW your problem isn't too bad. The top 3/4 of the plant look ok. They could be pointing upward more though.
Oh and I heard recently that when growing organic, you want to feed something like 2 weeks ahead of the time you're feeding for.
Edit add: using clean RO, filtered, or rain water is actually a lot more important than I used to think it was.
Quote:
Midgetpawn said: I suck at identifying my own problems, and I think most problems are PH created intake issues, overwatering, or over feeding, but based on that guide I linked, I'd say it could also be potassium, calcium or iron, and any combination of the 3.
the problem with the tap water is the chlorine and who knows what else is in tap water. I've noticed my cold tap water has about 10 less ppm, than my hot. I guess because the hot water is stored in a hot water heater and accumulate chlorine from when it rains and they add more.
Alright then. I will leave the water out in the open so the chlorine can be evaporated. And I'll continue watering them with PH-adjusted water and less often.
For the possible deficiencies, I have water-soluble fert which has N-P-K and other elements. but as I said, the soil was already nutrient-rich when I repotted and I'm afraid of giving them too much nitrogen. How long do you think I will need to wait for the compost to run out of nitrogen? It's been 3 weeks already.
If you use tap water, its really fine, dont listen to the critics that read somewhere tap water is poison.... I use ONLY TAP WATER, no buying water for high bills and paper trails... Fill 2 gallon jugs with your tap water, use a air pump with 2 air stones on a splitter, and put an air stone in each jug. now, wait 24 hrs before adding anything to the jugs. After 24 hrs take 1 jug, add nutes at introduction rates, and adjust PH accordingly. BAM, ready for watering. You can also wait 24 hrs, add nutes, and wait another 12 hrs, and your PH should adjust by itself if your nutes do so. I used general hydro once and they claimed to have self adjusting PH...
Thanks for the input, mate. I also thought that water TDS couldn't be a big problem. But since our tap water's hardness is 382.5, I've been having a hard time reducing the PH. It just bounces back. Today I finally bought some 5-gallon containers of purified water with TDS of 72, 2 dollars each.
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FirstGrow
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Ok. So I'll keep on giving them PH'd water with low TDS for the next few days to try and lower the PH of my mix.
These are some pics taken today. Can't wait to see some improvement..
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GoonerHeClips
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I actually think they look a little better The leafs look less curled over than before and your plant looks happier. The necrosis on the lower leaves nowhere near as much. Try the epsom salts in low dosage, 1 tsp per gallon in your low solids water, mix well, pH, and give it to them. It will help you with your what I perceive is a calcium overdose. The calcium blocks the magnesium intake. The magnesium therefore in short supply. You still have a deficiency that may be it. Also sulfur from the sulfate. Give it a shot!
Also, suggest top off your pot with some Black Gold or equal soil, you have an inch and it's cheap.
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Midgetpawn
Registered: 06/21/13
Posts: 577
Last seen: 4 years, 4 months
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Oh shit wait. I take back what I said about over feeding. I mistook your soil mix for your food and I don't even know what you're feeding them. What are you feeding them? I've had similar problems from just over feeding and feeding less gave me great results. I actually think your plant looks ok for your first grow and you probably don't need to do much besides study for future feedings. It could be a lot worse for sure.
Don't worry too much about water besides avoiding straight tap water IMO. You should be fine letting the chlorine evaporate over a few days. You shouldn't need to buy an RO filter at least. Can always get brita type filter or use rain water.
btw I read some thorough study about eggshells vs hydrated lime, though you should always use dolomite lime since hydrated kills beneficial bacteria and fungi supposedly. anyway apparently eggshells will only work if you grind them to a fine powder and even if you get them ground as fine as possible it will take 1 week to a few months to buffer the PH. It works about 50% as well as hydrated lime according to that study.
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lilmafia513
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why are people still telling him to add stuff to the water and ONLY use RO water????
Is anybody reading what i am typing???
Heres an idea....why dont we all tell him our ideas that we read somewhere and he can try 30 different things and give his plants everything that you use on yours, and see what happens....
Are we here to teach this person how to grow pot? Or here to argue whos idea is better?
Patience is key my friend....let the plant tell you what she needs...
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FirstGrow
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Quote:
GoonerHeClips said: I actually think they look a little better The leafs look less curled over than before and your plant looks happier. The necrosis on the lower leaves nowhere near as much. Try the epsom salts in low dosage, 1 tsp per gallon in your low solids water, mix well, pH, and give it to them. It will help you with your what I perceive is a calcium overdose. The calcium blocks the magnesium intake. The magnesium therefore in short supply. You still have a deficiency that may be it. Also sulfur from the sulfate. Give it a shot!
Also, suggest top off your pot with some Black Gold or equal soil, you have an inch and it's cheap.
Firstly, It's much relief to know that they look better. Thanks.
I will definitely try the epsom salt as you said, for I've been reading more about deficiencies recently and one of my other plants has been showing more of the symptoms caused by MG def.
About Black Gold, unfortunately I don't have the luxury of being able to find whatever I need in town. People here are still farming traditionally and the 3 gardening stores here offer a very limited variety of stuff. It even took me a month to obtain a bottle of PH-down! lol
Anyway, thanks for the info on MG. :bb
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FirstGrow
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Quote:
Midgetpawn said: Oh shit wait. I take back what I said about over feeding. I mistook your soil mix for your food and I don't even know what you're feeding them. What are you feeding them? I've had similar problems from just over feeding and feeding less gave me great results. I actually think your plant looks ok for your first grow and you probably don't need to do much besides study for future feedings. It could be a lot worse for sure.
Don't worry too much about water besides avoiding straight tap water IMO. You should be fine letting the chlorine evaporate over a few days. You shouldn't need to buy an RO filter at least. Can always get brita type filter or use rain water.
btw I read some thorough study about eggshells vs hydrated lime, though you should always use dolomite lime since hydrated kills beneficial bacteria and fungi supposedly. anyway apparently eggshells will only work if you grind them to a fine powder and even if you get them ground as fine as possible it will take 1 week to a few months to buffer the PH. It works about 50% as well as hydrated lime according to that study.
I stopped feeding them a couple of days ago in fear of nitrogen burn (my compost was rich in N)! Before that I gave them a water-soluble fert with NPK of 11-7-9 with every other watering. I have in mind to resume fertilizing 2-3 days later. I'm going to flush them tomorrow with low TDS water to remove excessive calcium or such..
It's very reassuring to know that my plants are not doing too bad!
Would that I could find dolomite lime.. It's nowhere to be found in my town. If it's so important, I'll have to order some from the capital then.
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FirstGrow
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Registered: 07/17/14
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Quote:
lilmafia513 said: Patience is key my friend....let the plant tell you what she needs...
Great! Patience I'm good at! Will let them do so, mate... I appreciate your concern.
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lilmafia513
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Quote:
FirstGrow said:
Quote:
lilmafia513 said: Patience is key my friend....let the plant tell you what she needs...
Great! Patience I'm good at! Will let them do so, mate... I appreciate your concern.
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FirstGrow
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Ok. Thanks to you guys, I think my girls are looking a lot better. I kept on giving them 6.5 PH water and less often. I also gave them some epsom salt and the leaf-tips on my new growth are way better:
Only one thing; Is it normal to have pre-flowers like these during veg?
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budgrowerwannabe
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Registered: 01/28/12
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yep
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FirstGrow
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Quote:
budgrowerwannabe said: yep
Awesome!
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GoonerHeClips
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Quote:
FirstGrow said:
Quote:
budgrowerwannabe said: yep
Awesome!
Hey good on you, those plants look hella better. Very green. Add a little molasses, say 1 tablespoon of molasses in a gallon of pHed water. Also get yourself some alfalfa meal and mix a couple tablespoons with your molasses water. I'd go 1/3 strength of fertilizer every other water for now. Use the molasses with the plain water but not with the 1/3 fert.
Edited by GoonerHeClips (09/26/14 12:21 PM)
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FirstGrow
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Quote:
GoonerHeClips said:
Quote:
FirstGrow said:
Quote:
budgrowerwannabe said: yep
Awesome!
Hey good on you, those plants look hella better. Very green. Add a little molasses, say 1 tablespoon of molasses in a gallon of pHed water. Also get yourself some alfalfa meal and mix a couple tablespoons with your molasses water. I'd go 1/3 strength of fertilizer every other water for now. Use the molasses with the plain water but not with the 1/3 fert.
Cool! will do, mate! Thanks for the input.
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Midgetpawn
Registered: 06/21/13
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well I forget the exact name of the stuff you need to use, but feeding your plants coconut water is supposed to have great results with organic grows. You need the raw stuff though, not the watered down drinks. Supposed to be a little secret with true organics and organic teas.
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FirstGrow
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That will be too expensive, considering how little coconut water I can get from each coconut. But thanks for the secret! I'll keep it in mind for future crops!
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Midgetpawn
Registered: 06/21/13
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I've never used the pure coconut stuff, which might be better in dry form, I'm not sure. just an uncommon tip that got acknowledged by a few professional organic growers and sounded worth remembering. I was just mentioning it because of something someone else said about organic additives
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