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This is not my work but I think it will be appreciated here.
The Science of Curing Contributors : Fergetit & Skunk Works
Does curing affect potency?
The very short answer is YES. It does affect potency in a very positive manner. Curing cannabis after harvesting for few days to several months will improve the potency, as well as the taste and texture of the buds.
Curing takes place after cannabis has been harvested, manicured and partially dried. Most cannabis will retain a significant quantity of moisture within its stems and inner buds even when the outside feels dry. This is especially true for very dense buds, more care must be taken in drying loose airy buds because sometimes they can dry too fast.
Should a sample of bud become over-dried before proper curing is complete, many different techniques may be used to slightly re-hydrate the bud and continue curing as normal. Fresh buds, orange or lemon peels, lettuce, apple or many other fresh fruits and vegetables can be added to a sealed jar of pot to allow more moisture to diffuse into it. Plain water either sprayed directly on or applied via towel to the buds is also a good way to re-moisten them.
Be very careful when re-moisturizing buds though, because sometimes the re-moisturizing material can carry pathogenic fungi and bacteria, Which if not monitored carefully, can destroy your crop. Venting, checking, turning, and even re-moistening of buds is necessary so that the proper moisture content to promote curing is present, slow even drying is the optimum process for curing cannabis.
The preferred container for curing and storage of cannabis buds is an all glass jar, with a large opening for easy access. Wide-mouth canning jars with glass bodies and tops with a rubber seal are an ideal choice. Less preferred are small-mouth canning jars with metal or plastic lids. Generally try to avoid all plastics in direct or close contact with your cannabis. Generally these materials are slightly porous and the phenolic acids and terpenoids can react with plastics, but not with glass.
Initially drying can be preformed free hanging or enclosed in cardboard boxes or paper bags, both of which will act as a desiccant.
There are several process and effects which take place during curing that can rationally and scientifically explain the increase in potency and improvement of the smoke in cured material:
Moisture Content
Moisture is essential for the curing process, it is both your friend and enemy. If too much moisture is left in the buds, with out the regular mixing, venting and turning of buds involved with curing, molds and bacteria can quickly form and ruin the taste and potency of your stash. On the other hand, without the necessary moisture metabolic processes essential to curing do not take place.
Fresh cannabis plants are around 80% water (all %’s by weight); curing generally begins after the cannabis has lost half of it’s initial mass, and contains approximately 33% of it’s initial water.
Once curing is complete and the pot is “dry”, it should still contain 10-15% moisture, approximately 2-4% of its’ initial water. This is an ideal because most bacteria and molds can not grow below 15% water content, and below 10% cannabis buds tend to powder.
Cannabinoid Conversion
Naturally, as the metabolic processes continue during curing, the conversion of cannabergerol to tetrahydrocannabinol will continue and the potency of the pot will increase. This is because cannabergerol (CBG) is the non-psychoactive precursor for tetrahydrocannabinol (THC). Of course, the exact change in THC content will necessarily be dependant upon the concentration of CBG in the fresh material at harvest. Of course any remaining precursors necessary to form additional cannabidiol (CBD) and other cannabinoids will also be consumed and converted.
Be aware though if curing is excessively prolonged (most connoisseurs would agree after 6 months no more benefit could be had from curing), the conversion of THC to non-psychoactive cannabinol (CBN) will occur. The exact rate of decomposition can vary widely depending on handling and storage conditions, but can be less than 10% to greater than 40% decomposition per year.
Storage tips:
Potency during curing and storage can be maintained by observing some basic precautions:
The buds need to be kept in the dark, protected from light, which will quickly decompose the THC.
Moderated temperatures should be observed during curing, 50-75F being ideal.
Excessively hot temperatures will promote oxidation and the growth of mold and bacteria, and very cold temperatures can prolong curing and drying for up to several months.
During storage, buds should be stored as cold as possible, if temperatures of 0C or less are to be used, make sure the bud is dried to a very low moisture content before storage (to insure that cell walls are not burst by the freezing water). Also, if prolonged storage is planned evacuating the oxygen and replacing it with carbon dioxide, nitrogen, argon, nitrous oxide, or any other inert gas will help slow oxidation, as well as the addition of antioxidants such as ascorbic acid packets or vitamin C tablets.
The most stable way to store cannabis is as whole unbroken buds or unpressed trichomes. Excessive rough handling or pressing can easily damage the protective cell walls and plant waxes that help protect cannabinoids from oxidation.
Continued Metabolism
Also as these metabolic process take place, the plant needs energy which leads it to consume the sugars, starches, nitrates, and minerals. Many of these compounds are metabolized and released as water and carbon dioxide, therefore removing what is essentially inert material from the pot increasing the concentration of cannabinoids therefore making it more potent.
Much of these positive metabolic processes can be most effectively begun with thourough flushing and stripping of the plant before harvest. This will help reduce the amount of time necessary for a good cure.
Curing will not only improve potency, but the color and look of most cannabis buds because as the chlorophyll is broken down purple, gold, and white coloration can emerge and the trichomes will appear more pronounced.
Decarboxylation
Some decarboxylization will take place during curing as well. This happens when the carboxyl group (COOH) located at C-2, C-4, or the end of the hydrocarbon chain at C-3 is destroyed leaving a hydrogen attached and liberating CO2.
Decarboxylization is necessary to convert cannabinoids to usable psychoactive forms; the plants (and your body) carboxylize cannabinoids to make them more soluble in water (for metabolic reactions and excretion).
Research indicates that this effect is fairly minimal during the curing process though. Decarboxylization will take place naturally very rapidly at temperatures of over 100C. So smoking and most any cooking will decarboxylize the cannabinoids. As decarboxylization occurs, the loss of CO2 will liberate a small amount of inert material making the pot more potent via concentration of the cannabinoids.
Taste & Odor
Terpenoids are the highly volatile compounds that give marijuana much of its’ characteristic odors, and therefore tastes.
The most current research also suggests terpenoids lend to the high, sometimes very significantly. Cannabinoids are phenolated terepenes so it’s not surprising that many hundreds of different terpenoids are synthesized as well.
As pot ages, some of the terpenoids go through polycyclic aromatization in the process of decomposition. This agglomeration of terpenoids will change the flavor; hence the ability of cured pot to show flavors that didn’t seem present in the original fresh material. Much of the very volatile terpenoids will also evaporate and or decompose, especially with prolonged curing or storage. This action will remove some matter from the pot increasing the cannabinoid concentration and therefore potency.
It must be noted that excessively long curing or storage, higher temperatures, or extremely low moisture content will cause such through evaporation of the terpenoids that the cannabis will generally loose almost all of it’s natural flavors.
good post, ill be keeping this one for later viewing. ive got a friend who drys its buds and thats it. not the best in potency and it always has a hay taste and smell, maybe when it sees this itll change its ways.
I really believe that curing is half the battle. That is the main difference between the seeds one grows out of an average bag of mids. Its important to do it right.
yeah curing is very important.....it affects the aroma, the strength/potency, the flavor, how it burns, and the weight which in turn affects the price, (in a good way!)....all in all curing is just way better than not...
Quote: Dr. Penguin said: orange or lemon peels, lettuce, apple or many other fresh fruits and vegetables can be added to a sealed jar of pot to allow more moisture to diffuse into it. Plain water either sprayed directly on or applied via towel to the buds is also a good way to re-moisten them.
Be very careful when re-moisturizing buds though, because sometimes the re-moisturizing material can carry pathogenic fungi and bacteria, Which if not monitored carefully, can destroy your crop. Venting, checking, turning, and even re-moistening of buds is necessary so that the proper moisture content to promote curing is present, slow even drying is the optimum process for curing cannabis.
ime never EVER spray, or use fruits and shit. the best thing to use is a cigar humidifier, and one per quart mason jar works wonders to re-hydrate without having to worry about infecting your stash as much
-------------------- I'm an electric smoker
ExplosiveMango said: If everyone could do mushroom, yes, it would be a wonderful world. This will never be, only some can do mushrooms. It is the responsibility of those of us who see the world most clearly to pass the clarity on to those who cannot bare to wear our lenses.
Madtowntripper said:Or just give her a cloroform soaked rag and tell her it's ether!
Man I do like fruits in my bud....it adds a nice citrus taste and makes the bud stay a little more "moist" than if I didnt put some orange peels in the bud.
Good read. A little long but good Six months of curing would seem like forever to me having this freshly harvested bud sitting right in front of me just asking to be smoked.
Quote: Dr. Penguin said: orange or lemon peels, lettuce, apple or many other fresh fruits and vegetables can be added to a sealed jar of pot to allow more moisture to diffuse into it. Plain water either sprayed directly on or applied via towel to the buds is also a good way to re-moisten them.
Be very careful when re-moisturizing buds though, because sometimes the re-moisturizing material can carry pathogenic fungi and bacteria, Which if not monitored carefully, can destroy your crop. Venting, checking, turning, and even re-moistening of buds is necessary so that the proper moisture content to promote curing is present, slow even drying is the optimum process for curing cannabis.
ime never EVER spray, or use fruits and shit. the best thing to use is a cigar humidifier, and one per quart mason jar works wonders to re-hydrate without having to worry about infecting your stash as much
I've never seen problems using fruit peels or fresh buds to rehydrate. The only time I've ever seen mold problems was when someone left maybe a 2g bud (still damp) sealed in a huge glass jar for a month and never exchanged the air. Opened it up a month later and broke the bud open and it was all moldy on the inside. My friend kept asking if there was any way to salvage it.
:print post: :give to old guy who refuses to cure:
-------------------- DO NOT USE mushmagic.com- THEY LIE AND SELL DRUGS TO CHILDREN --------------------------------------------------
Back the tape up. I need it again!
Let it roll! Just as high as the fucker can go!
And when it comes to that fantastic note
where the rabbit bites its own head off,
I want you to THROW THAT FUCKING
RADIO INTO THE TUB WITH ME!
Not me. It would blast you through
the wall stone dead in ten seconds and they'd make me explain.
what many people dont realize is that bacteria is what is behind the metabolic process of curing theres good bacteria and bad bacteria and the trick is to find a happy medium by creating a envrionment that the bacteria can survive (air, light, water) while minimizing the degradation of the plant while also fighting off mold. if the bud is to dry then bacteria will die and the curing proccess can no longer be continued. rehydration will not work because the bacteria is already dead unless it is rehydrated much earlier. starting the cure too early and an ammonia smell is noticed the curing should also no longer be continued. thats why the best chance is by using a two way humidity pack like what is used in the cvault(identical containers can be bought from some kitchen supply stores for half the price) one more thing is light. contrary to what most people think, light is also needed for curing in very small amounts usually this is never a problem light has ways of getting into very dark places. which brings us to oxygen. curing can not be done without oxygen, butt too much and bud will degrade
Quote: Tsmit420 said: what many people dont realize is that bacteria is what is behind the metabolic process of curing theres good bacteria and bad bacteria and the trick is to find a happy medium by creating a envrionment that the bacteria can survive (air, light, water) while minimizing the degradation of the plant while also fighting off mold. if the bud is to dry then bacteria will die and the curing proccess can no longer be continued. rehydration will not work because the bacteria is already dead unless it is rehydrated much earlier. starting the cure too early and an ammonia smell is noticed the curing should also no longer be continued. thats why the best chance is by using a two way humidity pack like what is used in the cvault(identical containers can be bought from some kitchen supply stores for half the price) one more thing is light. contrary to what most people think, light is also needed for curing in very small amounts usually this is never a problem light has ways of getting into very dark places. which brings us to oxygen. curing can not be done without oxygen, butt too much and bud will degrade
Quote: Tsmit420 said: what many people dont realize is that bacteria is what is behind the metabolic process of curing theres good bacteria and bad bacteria and the trick is to find a happy medium by creating a envrionment that the bacteria can survive (air, light, water) while minimizing the degradation of the plant while also fighting off mold. if the bud is to dry then bacteria will die and the curing proccess can no longer be continued. rehydration will not work because the bacteria is already dead unless it is rehydrated much earlier. starting the cure too early and an ammonia smell is noticed the curing should also no longer be continued. thats why the best chance is by using a two way humidity pack like what is used in the cvault(identical containers can be bought from some kitchen supply stores for half the price) one more thing is light. contrary to what most people think, light is also needed for curing in very small amounts usually this is never a problem light has ways of getting into very dark places. which brings us to oxygen. curing can not be done without oxygen, butt too much and bud will degrade
Do you have anything to back this up?
-------------------- Dude she isn't as young as she use to be.
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Triptonic likey post on curing.
The only time I've ever seen mold problems was when someone left maybe a 2g bud (still damp) sealed in a huge glass jar for a month and never exchanged the air. Opened it up a month later and broke the bud open and it was all moldy on the inside. My friend kept asking if there was any way to salvage it.
U
