This is for indoor but just use what applies.
Or just water them, and they will grow as long as ou dont live in the north pole, or some weird other climate. Oh and google sexing plants and try and get some pics. Its always been very easy for me.
And i quote.....
20:10:10. Organic
Lights
As the seasons change and the plant progresses through its life cycle, changes in the color spectrum of the sun and the length of the day let the plant know when it's time to reproduce.
Flowers are the sexual organs of plants. When the season changes from Spring to Fall, the plants prepare for reproduction. Since we will be removing the males, when this occurs, the females' buds will continue to grow and their THC content will continue to increase. You will need to use two different types of light for growing marijuana
During the stage of rapid vegetative growth, the plant will need a lot of blue-spectrum light turned on for most of the day. These lights are typically sold as daylight light bulbs. The color quality of lights is often measured on the package as color temperatue, expressed in Kelvin. The color temperature you want for this stage of growth will be higher, in the range of 6,500K. For good vegetative growth, you will need at least 2,000 lumens per square foot.
There are several types of lights that work well in this color range. If your budget is not particularly tight, you can purchase some Metal-Halide or MH lights. These lights are ideal for the vegetative growth phase of the growing process. They can produce significant qantities of light. MH lights require ballasts in order to operate, and tend to be more expensive. They also produce more heat. For a small grow operation, MH lights might actually be overkill. I would recommend fluorescents.
There are two types of fluorescent lights that are usable for growing marijuana. There are grow-light fluorescent tubes. A popular brand of fluorescent grow-light tubes is Grow-Lux, but several other brands exist. These kinds of lights require fluorescent fixtures to be used, which are available at any hardware story for only $5-$10 and they are relatively easy to construct.
For the flowering stage of growth, the plant will grow best with a high proportion of red-spectrum light (approximately 2,700K) turned on for only about half the day. The actual quantity of light should also be increased as well to at least 3,000 lumens per square foot. There are no fluorescent tubes available which offer good light in this specture. CFL's can however reach this spectrum and are sold as soft white lights. They appear orangish-yellowish when lit.
A brighter light that operates well in this spectrum is High-pressure Sodium light, or HPS. HPS lights require a ballast system to operate. HPS lights emit a lot of heat, so they should be placed farther away from the plants than the fluorescents.
All this lighting stuff can be confusing, so the following list summarizes the pros and cons of the various lighting types.
* Metal-Halide: High intensity light that produces a lot of blue-spectrum light. Requires a ballast to be operated. Great for the vegetative phase.
* Fluorescent Grow-light Tube: Long tubes that produce blue-spectrum light. Requires fluorescent fixtures to be operated. Great for the vegetative phase.
* Compact Fluorescent Light: Small spiral shaped tubes that produce either blue or red spectrum light. Fit standard light sockets. Great for vegetative phase (daylight/6,500K) or flowering phase (soft white/2,700K).
* High Pressure Sodium: High intensity light that produces a lot of red-spectrum light. Requires a ballast. Great for the flowering phase.
In reality, the sun never fully converts from one spectrum to the other. It can actually be beneficial to use both blue and red spectrum lights at all times. Instead of switching light sources entirely, choose a ratio of about 3:1 for either phase. That is, for the vegetative phase, use three times as much blue spectrum light as red spectrum light and for the flowering phase use three times as much red spectrum light.
You will also need a timer for your lights. Timers are sold at any hardware store or Walmart for around $5. They can be programmed to have different on/off periods, which will simulate day/night periods. For the vegetative phase, you want to have longer day periods, usually 18 hours on, 6 hours off. For the flowering phase, shorter days signal the coming of fall, usually 12 hours on 12 hours off. Invest in a timer, because turning the lights on and off becomes a pain and forgetting can mean the difference between good and bad marijuana production.
growroom
Building your grow room will probably the most physically exhaustive part of growing your own marijuana indoors. The room can be anything from a bedroom closet to a home-built grow box. There are a couple of things to take into consideration when choosing a grow space.
* Temperature: The temperature of the grow room should not be excessively cold or hot. Marijuana likes temperatures between 70 and 85 degrees. Keep in mind that the lights will raise the temperatue. If you want to grow in a space that cannot provide temperatures within this range, you will need to bring in heaters or air conditioners which can be hard for a first-time grow.
* Humidity: The room should not be excessively damp or dry. Marijuana likes around 40-60% humidity, so make sure you can maintain the humidity in this range. You may use a humidifier or a dehumidifier if necessary.
* Light: The grow room should be isolated from external light sources. Light leaking out of the room can tip people off that something is going on and if you are trying to hide your garden from somebody, this is a dead giveaway. More importantly though, the plants need to have as minimal light as possible during their lights-off phases. Cardboard and duct tape are a great way to seal light leaks.
* Size: The location you choose will need to be high enough to support an adult plant (depends on strain) and will need to have enough surface area to support however many plants you choose to grow.
* Location: Location is very important. You don't want the plants in high traffic areas where they might be spotted or people may interfere with their optimal growth. You also don't want to plant somewhere next to electrical equipment or heating systems. If you need to get repairs done, the repairman might spot your crop.
Once you've found a suitable location to build your grow room, it's time to start building. The first task is to work on your circulation. For small operations (1-3 plants) circulation can simply be opening the door to look at your plants every day, but having good circulation is important to maintain temperature and humidity. Also, plants exude waste materials through their leaves and if this accumulates, it can be bad for the plants. A good source of circulation is a simple CPU fan connected to an AC adapter. These can be connected relatively simply, but any fan would work. The fan should be used to take air in through some opening and should expel it at an exhaust hole on the other end of the room. Be careful not to let too much light leak through the exhaust system!Next you'll want to do is cover the walls with some reflective material. This can be as simple as painting the walls white, but for maximum reflectivity, I recommend using mylar wall-covering. Mylar is available relatively inexpensively at any grow supply store. This should be placed on the walls smoothly and as completely as possible. Duct tape works for adhering it to the walls.Then you will want to have some kind of platform to hold your lights. This can simply be a board holding CFL's in clamps, any number of fluorescent tubes, or an MH/HPS ballast. The platform should be of an adjustable height to accomidate the growing plants. I recommend using a chain connected to the ceiling so that it can simply be hoisted up as the plants grow. Make sure whatever you attatch the lights to can hold the weight of the potentially heavy lights. Connect the ligths to an automated timer that will control the light cycles.u are now basically done. The final task is to ensure the area is sealed in terms of light. It might be beneficial to place some kind of plastic surface on the bottom to avoid water damage. The way you build your grow room is up to you, but this guide should help a little
Once your plants start hanging over the edges of the cups significantly, it might be time to move them to larger pots. I would recommend using 5 gallon pots as these will be able to support the plants throughout their entire lives. To transplant them, simply fill one of your new pots with soil and dig a small hole to fit the plant. Take a utility knife and cut 4 large slits all the way up the sides of your solo cups. The soil should come out together very nicely. Then, simply place the plant into its final home and fill in the empty spaces with loose soil. Be careful when transplanting as this can be a fairly stressful time for the plants.
Throughout this stage, you should be using mostly lights in the blue spectrum range. Look for daylight bulbs and if the package displays color temperature, you want 6,500K. The lights should be on for 18 hours and off for 6. Pick a sun-up for when the lights should turn on and keep this the same throughout the entire plant's life. We will only ever be adjusting the sun-down time. Try to keep the plants in complete darkness when the lights are off as light leaks can increase the propencity of hermaphrodism (having both male and female parts).
If you are using CFLs or fluorescent tubes, you should place the lights within a couple inches of the tops of the plants. They can even be touching the plants as these lights do not produce much heat, but 2-3 inches away is ideal. If your lights are too far away, it might cause your plants to stretch. Since you are growing indoors, you want to control height as best as possible and for the best yield you want bulky strong plants, not tall lanky ones.
Keep a thermometer in the room and monitor the temperature. While the lights are on, the temperature should be between 70-85 degrees Farenheit. During lights-off, the temperature can drop a little. A humidity detctor can be useful as well. Try to keep the humidity between 40-60%, though this is harder to control. Both of these devices can be purchased at grow supply stores, hardware stores and even Walmart.
If you used potting soil with nutrients already included, you will not need to use any nutrients at this stage. A lot of newbies overfertilize and can end up damaging the plant. Be careful if you are using nutrients and follow the directions that come with the product.
Your primary responsibility to your plants at this stage of life is to water them and provide them with light. Do not overwater your plants! Only water plants when the top of the soil is dry and crusty. Plants can handle periods of drought much better than torrential floods. Waterings will end up taking place once or at most twice a week. Look for drooping leaves as this can be a sign of overwatering.
Your plants will tell you how they feel by the way their leaves look. In general, any deviations from strong green leaves is a sign that something might be wrong. There are many things that can cause these deviations. This guide summarizes many of the issues plants can face and what causes them.
You will also need to protect your plants from any invading critters that want to snag a bite of your plants. In general, you'll want to remove any bugs you see the moment you see them. The only exception is carnivorous bugs which will actually help control the population of other bugs in the garden. Good bugs are spiders and lady bugs. If you find you have an infestation of small plant-eating bugs adding some lady bugs is a nice organic alternative to insecticides, though if it comes down to it, insecticide is sold at your local grow supply store.
Once your plant is about half as tall as you would like it to be, at least around 18" and has 4-6 main leaf branches, you can begin the flowering stage. At this point in time, plants may begin showing signs of their sex. To learn how to determine sex, visit he Sexing Plants page. Below are several pictures of healthy plants during the vegetative stage.
The flowering stage is by far the most exciting of all stages of growth. You will finally start to notice marijuana buds forming. The sweet smell of fresh marijuana will begin penetrating the air, and you will have some seriously nice looking plants. All your hard work is about to pay off, but don't get too excited. Let your plants keep growing until their peak. Harvesting too soon can seriously reduce your potential yield. Be patient, and you can expect a great harvest.
As soon as you notice the plants showing sign of their sex, you will want to remove the males. If both sexes are allowed to grow to maturity, the males will pollenate the females and your weed will not be sinsemilla. To learn about determining the sex of your plants.
The biggest change from the vegetative stage is the lighting. We want to increase the amount of red-spectrum lighting and we want more light in general. Attempt to maintain 3,000 lumens per square foot of growing space. If you were growing with fluorescents, you can keep any tubes out there. A lot of people like to use fluorescent tubes to provide side lighting for your tall plants. This is a good idea. You will want to replace most of your 6,500K CFL's with 2,700K CFL's. The 2,700K spectrum is usually called soft white.
You might also want to think about High Pressure Sodium bulbs. They sell standard socket HPS bulbs at hardware stores for about $20. It's more expensive than other lighting, but you can produce a much greater light output. They also produce more heat, so keep them farther away from your plants, a foot or so should suffice. Direct contact is perfect fine with fluorescents, but proximity to HPS lighting will burn your plants.
The lights need to also be on for less time. The perfect flowering light cycle is 12 hours on, 12 hours off. Keep the same dawn time you used for the vegetative stage to reduce stress on the plants. This lighting cycle will let the plants know Fall has come, and for the Cannabis plant, Fall is the season of love.
Keep your watering the same. If you were using nutrients for vegetation (nitrogen-rich), stop them as the plants will need more phosphorous than nitrogen at this stage. Grow supply stores sell great nutrients for flowering. Almost anything with the word bloom in the name will work, but ask the sales staff for advice if you're uncertain. Nutrients will usually be mixed in with the water at watering. Just like before, only water the plants when the top of the dirt has become dry and crusty. The plants are still very suceptible to over-watering.
Remember only to do any gardening while the lights are on. Lights on in the middle of their night-time periods is not good for the plants. The care you have to provide here is much the same as with the vegetative stage. Control any insects and keep your plants happy. Pay attention to their needs. You might want to trim some of the larger leaves to allow light to penetrate to the lower levels, but this is not absolutely necessary.
When you start to notice a snowy haze forming on your buds, it's time to consider Harvesting your marijuana. Below are several pics of healthy marijuana plants during the flowering stage.
By now you are probably quite excited to start smoking your buds. To achieve the best marijuana possible, timing is the key. Knowing when to stop nutrients and when to harvest is an important skill to master. The first couple times you grow, you will most likely not get it perfect, but through trial and error you will eventually figure it out.
To achieve the best tasting marijuana, you will want to stop all nutrients about two weeks before harvest. This allows the nutrients stored in the plant to be used up in the growth process and not in your buds. If you don't stop nutrients, you will have poor taste and difficult-to-light marijuana. A good rule of thumb is to stop nutrients the moment you begin seeing any of the trichomes turning an amber color, but if you have knowledge of your particular strain, you can follow whatever guidelines are provided with the strain.
Trichomes are the small resin glands found on your buds. The trichomes are quite small, so you will need a pocket-microscope to see them well. The pictures above show the progression of the trichomes from a clear color, to a milky translucent color, to slightly amber. Not all trichomes will mature at the same time, but you will want to harvest when most of the trichomes have become the milky color. Amber trichomes are fine, but high concentrations of amber trichomes will tend to get you stoned, while high concentrations of milky trichomes will get you high. A good ratio is ideal.
Once you feel your marijuana has matured to an optimal point, it is time to harvest. You have two options, harvest the branches one at a time or harvest the whole plant at once. I recommend harvesting the plant all at once as a beginner. It will be easier for you. Simply cut the plant at the base using scissors of garden shears.
This might be a particularly difficult time for you as well. No doubt your plants and you have become very close over the past couple months. Say a prayer and thank the plant before cutting it down and immediately move to trimming and manicuring.
Once you have cut down the plant, take it somewhere to work. Working on a flat surface will allow you to easily collect the material you remove. This material is low in THC, but THC is still present and it can be used to make hash oil.
Trimming the buds is a relatively simple process, but make sure to take your time. Essentially all that you need to do is cut the branches holding the buds from the plant and removing all the leaves. Take your time and use a pair of scissors with small blades so that you have full control. You will get the hang of this with some practice.
When you are done trimming the buds, they should look like the image below. These trimmings are not smokable yet, they still need to be dried and cured,
Preparing your marijuana for smoking is two-part process that can take as long as two months, however a good amount should be smokable within a couple of weeks. Be patient and don't quick dry too much because if you have the patience, you will likely have the best weed you've ever smoked.
Hanging is the most common way to dry you buds. Take the long stems of trimmed marijuana and hang them from strings. The environment in which they are being dried is very important. Humidity should be low as high humidity will cause mold. If you notice mold forming on your pot (foul-smelling, fuzzy, very noticable) don't let it spread to other buds and reduce the humidity. The temperature should be relatively low, less than 70 degrees. High heat and humidity will cause mold and actually decrease potency. Let the buds dry for a few weeks, or until they are dry. A good way to tell when the buds are dry is that the stems will snap instead of bending.Once your buds are dry, they will be mostly smokable. Most of the smaller buds will be ready to be rolled into joints or smoked in a bowl, but you should still cure your buds. The curing process is a very passive process that is not particularly hard to stick to, because the weed is generally pretty smokable while you are waiting for the optimal cured product. To cure the buds, simply remove as much of the stems as possible and pack the buds lightly into mason jars with lids. Open the lids once or twice a day to let excess moisture escape and continue this process for about a month.
After you stop seeing moisture forming on the inside of the jar, you have officially grown your own marijuana. The buds are then ready for long-time storage. Sit back, and smoke your marijuana. Also, see our additional reading section.
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All of the statements and posts I make or have made are fake. I just found all the pictures and copied and pasted them here. I am in no way associated with any of the materials discussed here. I'm just bored, and lame.
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