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By intake, do you mean it should be installed inside of the Growbox, or outside of it? Also, how would I attach this Filter you sent a link to me of to the Fan that you also sent a link to me of?
The passive intake filter can be installed on either the inside or outside, I would prefer to put it on the outside, near the bottom of the cabinet. I believe the carbon filter can be connected to the fan with a short length of ducting.
You need a hepa filter for the intake, not a carbon filter.
I don't think ipower is a very quality brand, so I wouldn't be surprised if the fan broke down rather quickly. AC infinity or vortex is what I would go with.
Vivosun has cheaper lights and tents, so not sure how good their charcoal filter is. I've never bought one, so I have no idea which brands are the best.
Congratulations on starting your journey into marijuana cultivation! Regarding your question about what to initially grow your seedlings in, there are a few options you could consider. Coco pellets are a popular choice because they provide good drainage and aeration. Hydroponic solutions are another option, but they can be a bit more complex to set up.
Quote: yoosername said: If you go with that Atreum 10 pack, I'd try to fit two in there, wired in parallel to split the wattage. Eventually you can use the rest of the boards to light a 3x3 or 4x4 tent.
Watering frequency is going to depend on the amount of aeration in your soil, and will be increased with fabric pots, but that should also decrease your chances of overwatering.
It's something you have to get a feel for, but the idea is to never let the soil dry out, while ensuring it stays moist and alive but not oversaturated.
Eventually you'll might need to feed nutrients, there are a number of dry amendments that will work for this, espoma tomato tone is a pretty readily available one. Topdress under the mulch layer and water in, best done before visible deficiencies arise as it can take a while to work.
Your other options are liquid organics, or synthetic nutrients. Liquid organics can be made at home using Korean Natural Farming methods. A FPJ made with horsetail for example could be used as a silica source during stretch to reduce internode spacing, or one made from fruit as a bloom booster.
It's been awhile, but I've started to finally get the nerve up and begin growing some Bud, which will be Northern Lights.
So, I'm in my Grow Chamber, and noticing just how HOT it was getting in there, so I'm about to make a few adjustments to control the Temperature in there (fucker was in the low 80s with Humidity at 35%. Definitely not what I need), one of which is to poke some holes in the Carbon filter that I added to the hole I cut into the bottom of my Grow Chamber. I'm beginning to believe that's the culprit in regards to the Air not circulating like it's supposed to. If that doesn't work, I might just either expose more Air by lifting the small piece of Carbon filter I installed, or remove it altogether.
I have some Black Gold, Perlite, Vermiculite, and a bottle of Alaska Fish Fertilizer. I've been researching to see the proper mixture of it all, but am receiving conflicting answers on the Web. I'm sure this is due to People's own personal tastes and what works for them, but I'm wondering do I need the Perlite & Vermiculite to mix with the Soil, or nah (I remember you mentioning Perlite, so I assume I might not need the Vermiculite)? Also, when do I use the Alaska Fish Fertilizer--during Vegetation, Flowering, or both phases? If I do use both Perlite & Vermiculite, how much do I use to mix with the Black Gold? And, when do I use the Espana Tomato Tome?
I'd remove the filter if it's restricting airflow.
You can also dim your lights a bit, run the drivers outside the grow chamber, or lower the temp of the room the chamber is in to reduce temps, but increasing airflow is often easiest.
Organic growing is going to be a challenge if you aren't constantly willing to learn. By comparison growing with ionic nutrients is as simple as following numbers on a stick.
A good soil mix usually consists of peat moss and compost, sometimes with added perlite for aeration. Nutrients are added in the form of the Espoma tomato tome upon mixing the soil, and it's then left to sit for a month or more to "cook" while the nutrients become available. Fish hydrolysate can be mixed with water and fed as deficiencies arise, but nutrient imbalances can occur over time if you aren't testing your soil.
To be honest, mixing your own soil can be a pain in the ass. For a first time grower, I'd just buy a bag or two, or go with ionic nutrients like Jacks 321 and grow in hempy buckets with perlite or run to waste in coconut coir. It's a different style of growing but I've come to prefer growing in coco.
Quote: yoosername said: I'd remove the filter if it's restricting airflow.
You can also dim your lights a bit, run the drivers outside the grow chamber, or lower the temp of the room the chamber is in to reduce temps, but increasing airflow is often easiest.
Organic growing is going to be a challenge if you aren't constantly willing to learn. By comparison growing with ionic nutrients is as simple as following numbers on a stick.
A good soil mix usually consists of peat moss and compost, sometimes with added perlite for aeration. Nutrients are added in the form of the Espoma tomato tome upon mixing the soil, and it's then left to sit for a month or more to "cook" while the nutrients become available. Fish hydrolysate can be mixed with water and fed as deficiencies arise, but nutrient imbalances can occur over time if you aren't testing your soil.
To be honest, mixing your own soil can be a pain in the ass. For a first time grower, I'd just buy a bag or two, or go with ionic nutrients like Jacks 321 and grow in hempy buckets with perlite or run to waste in coconut coir. It's a different style of growing but I've come to prefer growing in coco.
I think I figured it out.
I did as you suggested, which was completely remove the piece of Carbon filter, but this time added the small Humidifier inside spraying Hot Water in a misty vapor--STILL no results. The Temp was in the mid-70s, but the Humidity still remained at 32-34%. Definitely not the results I was looking for.
I then attempted to try and adjust the Lights by playing with the 2 Potentometers on the Driver, but I didn't have a Screwdriver small enough for it, so I decided to try again Today. After more failed attempts trying to use something else, I then had an idea--
--why don't I have the Humidifier spritzing more steam into the Grow Chamber, but leave the Fan off, but the Lights on?
I decided to add the Carbon filter on the back again, but cutting 3 long wide slits on it instead of holes, then placed the Humidifier back inside with the Lights on, but Fan off. After letting it run for possibly 20-30 mins, I checked the Thermometer--
--it was about 80 degrees, but the Humidity at 64%.
At this point, I decided to turn the Fan back on and let it run. After about an hour or so, the Temp dropped to 70.5 degrees and the Humidity at 43%. Just what I needed, the PERFECT Environment for the Grow Chamber.
I shut it all down right now and am trying to get things set up to plant the Seed, but now trying to figure out just how I'm going to combine the Soil with either/or Perlite & Vermiculite. After thinking about it, I'm definitely going to mix the Perlite and Vermiculite with the Black Gold Organic Soil & Fertilizer along with the Espoma. The Instructions on the back of the Bags are helpful in determining just how much to mix. In regards to the Alaska Fish Fertilizer, I saw on the Bottle that it needs to be added to Water, as you already have mentioned, so I'm thinking to NOT wait for deficiencies to present themselves, as it'll be difficult to fix the issue the min I spot them, and just add it to Water when I feel is necessary. I'm trying to remember if the Plant needs more Nitrogen during the Vegetation stage, or Flowering stage, and since Alaska has more Nitrogen in it than the Soil, that's probably when I'll use it a bit more, but not too much.
I also bought an Electric PH Tester for the Soil, something I completely forgot to purchase last Year when I was buying the Supplies and doing more Research, so I should be good there.
I'm definitely doing the Knowledge and not just asking Questions because I'm too damn lazy to figure it out on my own, so I hope I'm not being too much of a bother here. I'm VERY excited to get started on this, and with everything you've taught me, among other Members here and on other Forums, along with the info I've discovered here and there, I'm definitely going to experiment with different types of Grow Methods and Soil mixtures. I'll share Photos when I can.
I wouldn't worry about the humidity being too low; plants act as humidifiers. Eventually you have to get rid of the excess moisture, figure on venting out or dehumidifying about as much water as you are feeding them.
Some soils have enough nutrients out of the bag, adding more can cause issues, so I'd go easy on the amendments until you know more about your soil.
Quote: yoosername said: I wouldn't worry about the humidity being too low; plants act as humidifiers. Eventually you have to get rid of the excess moisture, figure on venting out or dehumidifying about as much water as you are feeding them.
Some soils have enough nutrients out of the bag, adding more can cause issues, so I'd go easy on the amendments until you know more about your soil.
Ok. From all of the info I found on-line, it stated that the Humidity has to be between 40-50%, esp since it's going to be Northern Lights, so I'm just making sure I have everything in order on that front. I guess you're saying that even if it drops to around 34% like it was doing this Weekend when I was testing things out, but the Temps remain above 70 degrees, I should be fine. The Thermometer was showing that the Climate was comfortable, even at that stage, so I guess there's nothing to worry about.
I think I might plant the Seed sometime this Week, possibly Tomorrow.
Environmental control is the name of the game when growing, the better you can dial in your environment the faster your plants will grow and higher quality they will be when harvested. That said, low humidity slows them down a bit, but high humidity can invite diseases. As with most things in life, balance is key. If you really want the best growth rates, you can look into something called "vapor pressure deficit" and try to follow one of those charts. You can start off with high temp and humidity during veg with the right environment, but if you tried that during flower you'd probably get bud rot.
Anyways, the humidity dropping low isn't a big concern, and if you want to really dial in the environment, you'll have to invest in environmental controllers and equipment. The fancier AC infinity fans, for example, have a function that dials their speed down if your humidity's too low, up if it's too high, etc.
Then for the room the chamber draws its air from, you can control humidity with a dehuey, which will also increase temps, and control temps with an AC/heater or fan. Which leads me to my next point.
Ideal temp ranges vary from plant to plant, by as much as 10º. Many do well at around 80º during veg, reduced to around 60º by the end of flower. That temperature reduction is one of the best ways to improve a cannabis crop, but can be difficult when most grow equipment generates heat.