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Well he was saying "The female pollen sacks never drop pollen" and I'm just wondering about gibberellic acid vs STS when it comes to breeding and future potential hermies. btw STS is some powerful shit when it comes to producing pollen sacs on females. I sprayed one branch only once and it grew a shitload of pollen sacs.
I bought some GA3 because I'd read you can use it to get more females fro reg seeds, but I later learned that using a little more is supposed to boost males. There are several claims to what different GA3 amounts can do, and it all seems made up.
Just be careful with it cause it's nasty shit. I don't think it promotes males cause I don't think anything can do that. Hermies that's a different story. STS works by attaching itself to the hormone that tells the flower to form in the female shape. Gibberellic works more along the lines of shocking the plant.
The only real difference between the male plant and the female is the ability to make the hormone that tells the flower to form in the female shape. They both use the same hormone to trigger flowering. The thing with sts is that when properly done the plant never knows anything was done to it.
When gibberellic came out in the early 90s it was a big deal. Then people started planting the seeds and it was gone pretty fast. I never did use it on regular males so I can't answer if it will work there or not.
From this point on I'd listen to Oeric cause it sounds like he has more exp with it then I do.
-------------------- All creatures tremble when faced with violence. All creatures fear death, all love life. If we can only see ourselves in others, then how could we possibly hurt another creature?
Quote: Midgetpawn said: hey oeric, have you noticed any benefit to using gibberellic acid vs other alternatives when it comes to hermie prevention? and how should I use my non pollen dropping fem plant pollen sacs to pollinate females? crush them up maybe?
Its probably the same as any other method. If you already have these things going on, I'd say there's no reason to use it at all.
What I like to do as far as pollenating is basically embed one of them gently into a young bud and leave it there, at a time just past the white hairball stage & label the bud stem with tape or a twist tie
-------------------- ***Handing someone your life's work....in a single seed = ***
There are some things I hate to post one is the way I do my seeds but here ya go.
STS in any concentration is only effective at inhibiting ethylene for about 3 weeks; at that point the plant's natural female metabolism begins to take back control, and even a plant that is covered with male blooms can't finish the journey to manhood and produce pollen. A second spraying allows inhibition to last through week 6, which is more than enough time to release pollen if you have decided to use stronger concentrations of STS. This is fine as long as it doesn't burn your plants. Obviously there is a wide range of usable formulas that will work. But the second spraying is the key to follow-through. You can store the working solution you used for round one (in the spray bottle) in your refrigerator for two weeks; no need to mix a new batch from stock.
I don't see the point of going any stronger than the formula I originally came up with. It has proven itself many times over. The only change I might make is to adjust it slightly to Gobgoober's "molar-correct" mix ratio. This is not at all necessary, but does allow the most effective use of the chemicals together.
Here's a post of the formula mix instructions, with the adjusted recipe below that:
Preparation of STS:
First, a stock solution is made. It consists of two parts (A and B) that are initially mixed separately, then blended together. Part A is ALWAYS mixed into part B while stirring rapidly. Use distilled water; tap water may cause precipitates to form.
Wear gloves while mixing and using these chemicals, and mix and use in a properly ventilated area. A mask will prevent the breathing of any dust, which is caustic. STS is colorless and odorless, and poses minimal health risks if used as described here. Note that silver nitrate and STS can cause brown stains upon drying, so spray over newspaper and avoid spilling.
Part A: .5 gram silver nitrate stirred into 500ml distilled water Part B: 2.5 grams sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous) stirred into 500ml distilled water
The silver nitrate dissolves within 15 seconds. The sodium thiosulfate takes 30-45 seconds to dissolve.
The silver nitrate solution (A) is then mixed into the sodium thiosulfate solution (B) while stirring rapidly. The resulting blend is stock silver thiosulfate solution (STS).
This stock solution is then diluted at a ratio of 1:9 to make a working solution. For example, 100ml of stock STS is added to 900ml of distilled water. This is then sprayed on select female plants.
Both the stock STS and the working solution should be refrigerated after use, as well as the powdered chemicals, to avoid activity loss.
The adjusted formula is as follows:
Part A: .7 gram silver nitrate stirred into 40ml distilled water Part B: 2.6 grams sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous) stirred into 160 ml distilled water
Next, slowly add the silver nitrate solution to the sodium thiosulfate solution while stirring. This combination is then added to 800 ml of distilled water to equal 1 liter. This is your final stock solution. It is diluted 1:9 with more distilled water to make your final working solution, which then gets sprayed on your target plant.
Either formula will work great, so don't sweat it too much. But do that second spraying at the end of week 2... seems to be the key for getting pollen from the more difficult strains.
May be a bit late to help ya now but maybe in the future.
-------------------- All creatures tremble when faced with violence. All creatures fear death, all love life. If we can only see ourselves in others, then how could we possibly hurt another creature?
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