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The reason nutrient manufacturer’s have “discovered” molasses is the simple fact that it’s a great source of carbohydrates to stimulate the growth of beneficial microorganisms. “Carbohydrate” is really just a fancy word for sugar, and molasses is the best sugar for horticultural use. Folks who have read some of our prior essays know that we are big fans of promoting and nourishing soil life, and that we attribute a good portion of our growing success to the attention we pay to building a thriving “micro-herd” to work in concert with plant roots to digest and assimilate nutrients. We really do buy into the old organic gardening adage - “Feed the soil not the plant.”
to put it bluntly the micro organisms feed off the molasses and any other organic fertilizer in the soil and secrete many beneficial nutrients that the plants feed on. there are many different kinds of molasses i would recommend blackstrap, if thats not available then original unsulphured works fine.
now here are a few recipes:
1 Gallon of water
1 TBSP of guano (for a flowering mix we’d use Jamaican or Indonesian Bat Guano - for a more general use fertilizer we would choose Peruvian Seabird Guano.)
1 tsp blackstrap or sugar beet molasses
We mix the ingredients directly into the water and allow the tea mix to brew for 24 hours. It’s best to use an aquarium pump to aerate the tea, but an occasional shaking can suffice if necessary and still produce a quality tea. We will give you one hint from hard personal experience, make sure if you use the shake method that you hold the lid on securely, nobody appreciate having a crap milkshake spread over the room.
Some folks prefer to use a lady’s nylon or stocking to hold the guano and keep it from making things messy, but we figure the organic matter the manure can contribute to the soil is a good thing. Using this method we feel like we are getting the benefits of a manure tea and a guano top-dressing all together in the same application. If you prefer to use the stocking method, feel free to feed the”tea bag”leftovers to your worm or compost bin, even after a good brewing there’s lots of organic goodness left in that crap!
We also use molasses to sweeten and enrich Alfalfa meal teas. Our standard recipe for this use is: 4 gallons of water
1 cup of fine ground alfalfa meal
1 TBSP blackstrap or sugar beet molasses
After a 24 hour brew, this 100% plant-based fertilizer is ready for application. Alfalfa is a great organic plant food, with many benefits above and beyond just the N–P-K it can contribute to a soil mix or tea. We do plan to cover Alfalfa and it’s many uses in greater detail soon in yet another thread. We prefer to mix our alfalfa meal directly into the tea, but many gardeners use the stocking”tea bag”method with great effectiveness, both work well, it’s really just a matter of personal preference.
The alfalfa tea recipe we described can be used as a soil drench, and also as a foliar feed. And foliar feeding is the final use of molasses we’d like to detail. Foliar feeding, for the unfamiliar, is simply the art of using fine mist sprays as a way to get nutrients directly to the plant through the minute pores a plant”breathes”through. It is by far the quickest and most effective way to correct nutrient deficiencies, and can be an important part of any gardener’s toolbox.
One final benefit of molasses is it’s ability to be used in the control of a couple of common pests encountered in gardening. The most commonly known use of molasses is it’s ability to help control Fire Ants, but we’ve also found an internet reference to the ability of molasses to control white cabbage moths in the UK, so molasses could be an effective pest deterrent in more ways that we are aware. As we said before, there are several references we’ve run across refering to the ability of molasses to control Fire Ants. Since we’re not intimately familiar with this particular use of molasses, and rather than simply re-write and re-word another’s work, we thought we’d defer to the experts. So for this section of the current version of the Molasses Manual, we will simply post a reference article we found that covers topic in better detail than we currently can ourselves.
Molasses Makes Fire Ants Move Out By Pat Ploegsma, reprinted from Native Plant Society of Texas News Summer 1999
Have you ever started planting in your raised beds and found fire ant highrises? Are you tired of being covered with welts after gardening? Put down that blowtorch and check out these excellent organic and non-toxic solutions. Malcolm Beck1, organic farmer extraordinaire and owner of Garden-Ville Inc., did some experiments that showed that molasses is a good addition to organic fertilizer (more on fertilizer in the next issue).
When using molasses in the fertilizer spray for his fruit trees he noticed that the fire ants moved out from under the trees. “I got an opportunity to see if molasses really moved fire ants. In my vineyard, I had a 500 foot row of root stock vines cut back to a stump that needed grafting. The fire ants had made themselves at home along that row. The mounds averaged three feet apart. There was no way a person could work there without being eaten alive! I dissolved 4 tablespoons of molasses in each gallon of water and sprayed along the drip pipe. By the next day the fire ants had moved four feet in each direction. We were able to graft the vines without a single ant bothering us.”
This gave him the idea for developing an organic fire ant killer that is 30% orange oil and 70% liquid compost made from manure and molasses. The orange oil softens and dissolves the ant’s exoskeleton, making them susceptible to attack by the microbes in the compost, while the molasses feeds the microbes and also smothers the ants. After the insects are dead, everything becomes energy-rich soil conditioner and will not harm any plant it touches. It can be used on any insect including mosquitoes and their larvae.
Break a small hole in the crust in the center of the mound then quickly!!! pour the solution into the hole to flood the mound and then drench the ants on top. Large mounds may need a second application. Available at Garden-Ville Square in Stafford, it has a pleasant lemonade smell. According to Mark Bowen2, local landscaper and Houston habitat gardening expert, fire ants thrive on disturbed land and sunny grassy areas. “Organic matter provides a good habitat for fire ant predators such as beneficial nematodes, fungi, etc. Other conditions favoring fire ant predators include shading the ground with plantings, good soil construction practices and use of plants taller than turfgrasses.” He recommends pouring boiling soapy water over shallow mounds or using AscendTM. “Ascend is a fire ant bait which contains a fungal by-product called avermectin and a corn and soybean-based grit bait to attract fire ants. Ascend works slowly enough to get the queen or queens and it controls ants by sterilizing and/or killing them outright.”
Malcolm Beck also did some experiments with Diatomaceous Earth - DE - (skeletal remains of algae which is ground into an abrasive dust) which confirmed that DE also kills fire ants. He mixes 4 oz. of DE into the top of the mound with lethal results. According to Beck, DE only works during dry weather on dry ant mounds. Pet food kept outdoors will stay ant free if placed on top of a tray with several inches of DE
1Beck, Malcolm. The Garden-Ville Method: Lessons in Nature. Third Edition. San Antonio, TX: Garden-Ville, Inc., 1998. 2Bowen, Mark, with Mary Bowen. Habitat Gardening for Houston and Southeast Texas. Houston, TX: River Bend Publishing Company, 1998.
I came across this home remedy from the UK for white cabbage moths.
Mix a tablespoon of molasses in 1 liter of warm water and let cool.. spray every week or every 2 weeks as required for white cabbage moth..they hate it..and I think it would be good soil conditioner as well if any drops on your soil.. It works for me...but gotta do it before white butterfly lays eggs...otherwise you might have to use the 2 finger method and squash grubs for your garden birds..
Quote: fantasy2reality said: when is a good time to apply to an outdoor plant?
right from the start, just start at low doses and work your way up;)
Seedlings less than 1 month old nutrient tea mix- 5 TBS. Black Strap Molasses 1-cup earthworm castings/5 gallons of water every 3rd watering
Vegetative mix- 1/3 cup Peruvian Seabird Guano (PSG) 1/3 cup High N Bat Guano (Mexican) 1/3 cup Earth Worm Castings (EWC) 5 TBS. Maxi-crop 1-0-4 powdered kelp extract 5 TBS. Liquid Karma (optional) 5 TBS. Black Strap Molasses @ 1-cup mix/5 gallons of water every 3rd watering.
Flowering nutrient tea mix: 2/3 cup Peruvian Seabird Guano 2/3 cup Earth Worm Castings 2/3 cup High P Guano (Indonesian or Jamaican) 5 TBS. Maxi-crop 1-0-4 powdered kelp extract 5 TBS. Black Strap Molasses
Now, after mixing all the ingredients... do I feed all in one watering? or spread it out throughout the course of the week?
I'm new to growing MJ, so please be patient. I just took some photo's of my best plant so far... I have three different locations within 50 square yards of each other.. one location has three plants, one has two, and the other has one plant.
Don't know why it worked out that way, but it did. I'm hoping I get at least two females. But I am new to the whole thing, and just trying to learn as I go.
I do have fish emulsion made by Bonide, I also have MG bloom booster for when the time comes. I already made the molasses tea, I used quail shit.... is this okay? I raise quail, and a friend told me that as long as I let it sun and dry, that it would be cool... Thanks for all your help for a beginner... I'm hoping to harvest some decent stuff to have for the year. I don't smoke that often so a little bit will last me forever.
Quote: fantasy2reality said: I used quail shit.... is this okay? I raise quail, and a friend told me that as long as I let it sun and dry, that it would be cool...
Don't know enough about organic to answer your question, but raising quail sounds like fun. Any pictures?
Should be fine..i know you can add them to a compost pile also. As long as they aren't fresh you should be good. I wouldnt use as much as you would with horse manure, bird droppings are much higher in nitrogen. If that don't work you can always make jewelery out of it.
Quote: erb said: Should be fine..i know you can add them to a compost pile also. As long as they aren't fresh you should be good. I wouldnt use as much as you would with horse manure, bird droppings are much higher in nitrogen. If that don't work you can always make jewelery out of it.
yeah make a turd necklace... like them ones made of candy? LMAO take a bite when your feeling low on N!!! LMAO want a matching set of earrings and bracelet? ROTFLMFAO
i've been looking for this thread, here's my question
what is the growth increase with plants you've fed molasses to and plants you haven't fed molasses to.
let's say I was planting something, and had a month and a half before the lighting changed to flower.
i had to get a few plants as tall as possible in just 2 and a half months. What would be the chance I'd succeed feeding my plants molasses as opposed to not feeding them molasses(and miracle grow)
-------------------- my rating of flavoraid:
b*tch*s shouldn't call me a retard..
and this shit... "I like to drink tea, lift weights, punch shit, have sex with girls"....
Quote: fantasy2reality said: Now, after mixing all the ingredients... do I feed all in one watering? or spread it out throughout the course of the week?
I'm new to growing MJ, so please be patient. I just took some photo's of my best plant so far... I have three different locations within 50 square yards of each other.. one location has three plants, one has two, and the other has one plant.
Don't know why it worked out that way, but it did. I'm hoping I get at least two females. But I am new to the whole thing, and just trying to learn as I go.
I do have fish emulsion made by Bonide, I also have MG bloom booster for when the time comes. I already made the molasses tea, I used quail shit.... is this okay? I raise quail, and a friend told me that as long as I let it sun and dry, that it would be cool... Thanks for all your help for a beginner... I'm hoping to harvest some decent stuff to have for the year. I don't smoke that often so a little bit will last me forever.
Put a fish tank bubbler in your solution to let aerate. After about 24 hours you will see foam start to form at the top of the solution. This will let you know that the micro-population of beneficial bacteria are starting to breed. Continue to brew for another 24 hours. Once this process is complete you will have an excellent foliar feed or a soil drench. if you cant do that put in bottles and shake a few times a day.
i assume you are using the vegetative mix if so than feed every 3rd watering. as for flowering mixture use every watering. peace
Quote: Iamasmoker said: i've been looking for this thread, here's my question
what is the growth increase with plants you've fed molasses to and plants you haven't fed molasses to.
let's say I was planting something, and had a month and a half before the lighting changed to flower.
i had to get a few plants as tall as possible in just 2 and a half months. What would be the chance I'd succeed feeding my plants molasses as opposed to not feeding them molasses(and miracle grow)
idk this calls for an experiment! btw molasses does way more than just makes grow faster: increases potency, yield, improves soil, makes more resistant to mold/contams, countless other things.
Put a fish tank bubbler in your solution to let aerate. After about 24 hours you will see foam start to form at the top of the solution. This will let you know that the micro-population of beneficial bacteria are starting to breed. Continue to brew for another 24 hours. Once this process is complete you will have an excellent foliar feed or a soil drench. if you cant do that put in bottles and shake a few times a day.
i assume you are using the vegetative mix if so than feed every 3rd watering. as for flowering mixture use every watering. peace
Yeah, I was just going to ask you about the foam on top, lol So it should be good to go then, I'll give here a go, and see if this is the ticket. I asked my friend about this tea, and he said he never used it, but thought it would be EXCELLENT in production. So I'll let you guys know what goes on. Thanks man.
Quote: Iamasmoker said: i've been looking for this thread, here's my question
what is the growth increase with plants you've fed molasses to and plants you haven't fed molasses to.
let's say I was planting something, and had a month and a half before the lighting changed to flower.
i had to get a few plants as tall as possible in just 2 and a half months. What would be the chance I'd succeed feeding my plants molasses as opposed to not feeding them molasses(and miracle grow)
idk this calls for an experiment! btw molasses does way more than just makes grow faster: increases potency, yield, improves soil, makes more resistant to mold/contams, countless other things.
yeah, I figured
here's the thing, the brown sugar feeds nitrogen fixing bacteria. it also feeds the plant which uses it as glucose/starch and helps it grow as if it had sun and water, right? I'm guessing doing this right would give a plant with 1 day of the sun the equivalent of 2 or 3 days of sun. here's the question
they say you need to make a tea, and let the brown sugar ferment until the water turns bubbly, which it will, I'm guessing more so in soil. Doing this feeds the nitrogen fixing bacteria and gives it a chance to take over, otherwise, you might end up feeding other bacteria if the tea doesn't ferment which could infect your plant and/or kill nitrogen fixing bacteria in turn giving the soil a nitrogen deficiency.
but the main thing is, if the tea ferments, won't the bacteria eat all the sugar, and not allow the plant to absorb any? this is my question, as I really want to speed up growth for the coming season, as I feel a little behind.
with 10 females, I know I could get half a pound to a few pounds of bud, but with slow growth at the first month, I don't know if I'll reach much more than an ounce from small plants.
if I could get anywhere between 4 to 8 ounces, I'd be happy.
so any help is helpful here.
-------------------- my rating of flavoraid:
b*tch*s shouldn't call me a retard..
and this shit... "I like to drink tea, lift weights, punch shit, have sex with girls"....
Quote: Iamasmoker said: I'm guessing doing this right would give a plant with 1 day of the sun the equivalent of 2 or 3 days of sun.
Why would you guess that?
I don't know, just an estimate
you are GIVING the plant sugars that it takes awhile for it to create on it's own, right?
if there's a recipe that calls for 1 tablespoon of brown sugar in a gallon of water everytime you water your plant, aren't you giving it the equivalent of a days worth of energy?
how much sugar is in a plant? i though a teaspoon of sugar was the equivalent of the amount of sugar you find in a 6 inch tall plant
so take the mass of a 6 inch tall plant, and multiply it by the amount of tablespoons total of brown sugar you give your plant, after a few months, wouldn't you say you've given your plants a total equivalent of quite a few extra days of sun?
sugar in a plant is created with water nitrogen and sunlight, right? or am i missing something?
-------------------- my rating of flavoraid:
b*tch*s shouldn't call me a retard..
and this shit... "I like to drink tea, lift weights, punch shit, have sex with girls"....
Quote: Iamasmoker said: you are GIVING the plant sugars that it takes awhile for it to create on it's own, right?
Something like glucose might be an end result of photosynthesis, but you still have to take into account respiration, which is the process the plant goes through to convert stored energy like that into its own, usable energy. The plant, I'm sure, has its limits on how much of this it is capable of at any point in time. I'm certain that, using this additive, you aren't going to get the equivalent of three days growth in one day.
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