Welcome to the Growery Message Board! You are experiencing a small sample of what the site has to offer. Please login or register to post messages and view our exclusive members-only content. You'll gain access to additional forums, file attachments, board customizations, encrypted private messages, and much more!
shit i believe in it, every time i trim the lower growth, two days later i have to trim the canopy because of all the new growth and leaves. pruning does work.
If mutating the plant messed shit up then why would so many people do it?
And supercropping seems like more damage to me than just trimming off a branch, and it desnt mess up anything.
Do you have anything to back up what you said hefe?
--------------------
The time you enjoy wasting is not wasted time.
anything and everything i post on here is completely fictional and come straight from the deepest depths of the black hole which is my mind.
So, FINALLY borrowed a camera that worked right, and got some good pics of what I"ve got growin'.
Here's the youngest first. These are the two clones we took last weekend. These are a week old today. Still no sign of roots yet, but they're looking strong! I'm a little concerned about the yellowing on the lower leaves of the bigger one though... Are these babies old enough for some nutes? The recommended dosage on the bottles says 1/4 tsp per gallon of water, of the Gro/Micro/Bloom, for seedlings and cuttings. Here's the two next in line. They're the two that we have been doing the most with the LST. We've kinda left them as is, for now, because we realized we don't have room in that little closet to do what we want to do with them. The third here is the next oldest. It was put into flower to sex it for some reason, then re-veged (which is why you can still see a couple single blade leaves at it's base), and that gave it a second main cola. We tied both of those down too, to see what it would to do help halt it's upward growth. It looks like its starting to get a little wilted, but the soil is still slightly moist. I'll be watering all these babdies as soon as I get up in the morning, to make em get a little thirsty.
Last of the clones is the Pandora. She's growing nicely. The Pan-3 died, unfortunately. Feeding with light nutes stopped the yellowing, and then it showed roots outside the rockwool, so the patient's wife potted it.
Into MG. It burned and died a slow horrible death... I swear to god, if I could afford to replace that 50lb bag of CRAP with FF, I would throw that thing away!
Now here's the Ladies in the grow room. Looking good after getting the new lights put in. Heat is becoming an issue though, so we're being forced to focus on getting a carbon scrubber and actual airflow coming in and out of the shed. The avg. temps are staying in the high 80's, and it's worrying me that it'll slow the growth down.
Pan 1 Monster J-14
J-15 J-16 J-17 And J-18
I'm a little concerned about J-16. It may be normal aging, I'm not sure, but several of the larger fan leaves have been yellowing and falling off.
I don't think it's a nute problem, because it was fed last night, with a little extra N in it, because I was worried about the yellowing. I would have posted about it then, but without pics, it's all just speculation... So what about these, huh? Is this natural shedding of older, less efficient fan leaves, or does this look like a real problem?
*Edit*
I also moved the lights up from the Monster about 4 inches. With the increase in wattage above her, it looks like her tips were getting a little burnt.
Your cloning looks like it is going well, you are going to have to shoot me a detailed list of how u did that, ive tried cloning 2 rounds now, and failed. I did see roots though outside the cube, but then it stopped. But anyways
The flowering girls look great, don't worry ull have the dank nugs soon too! just gotta be a little patient, ull have dankness in weeks!
Those pictures of the leaves turning yellow and falling off is a completely normal part of flowering. Its a combination of the flowering nutes having less N and also lack of light because of the canopy, its okay though, its supposed to happen. There will be quite a few that do that to, don't worry though. Its just different strains, i have one that barely dropped a leaf during flower, and another that drops like 2-3 a day opens her up for more airflow lol
keep up the good work my friend, and you will reap the rewards!
--------------------
The time you enjoy wasting is not wasted time.
anything and everything i post on here is completely fictional and come straight from the deepest depths of the black hole which is my mind.
Well honestly, these are the first two I ever cut, and I didn't really know what I was doing. I didn't even cut them with cloning in mind. We were pruning last week, and my wife clipped them off and handed them to me to toss, and it just came to me. lol
I took them inside once we were done with the pruning, and got right to it. I pulled out the rooting powder we have (Shultz Root take, or something like that), and read it. It said dip it in water, then the powder, flick the stem to shake off excess powder and insert into rooting medium.
So, I re-cut the end while under water (a tip I learned as a kid working in my parent's flower-shop; it keeps an air bubble from blocking any water from being absorbed into the stem), and then scraped the bottom inch or so of the stem, to encourage the rooting powder to take hold. Then it went into the powder, and shook off the excess. I slid it into the square of rockwool, and then put it into the tray. Once they were both done, I poured a little bit of R/O water on top of the rockwool, and then about 1/2 inch in the bottom of the tray. I let it soak up as much as it could in 10 minutes, squeezed them a little bit to let a little air into the cube, and poured out the excess into one of the other pots...
After 20 minutes, it looked like the bigger one was going to die, it was wilted and drooped over, but by the end of the night it had recovered, and they were both looking great. Tonight was the second time they've been watered (I would have waited one more night, but the oh so helpful patient's wife did that for me today).
Do you think I need to be watering this clone with some weak nutes? I mean, it's been in there a week, and it hasn't had anything to eat at all, and I'm worried that's what it's from...
Ok, so bad news again! I found that the plants had mites, again! I guess what he'd been using isn't as effective as he thought. I'll be spraying with soap-water in the morning when I turn the lights off... I hope this works...
hey before u do that, how far into flowering are they? if they are well into flowering, like 4+ weeks, the soap spray may not be a great idea, cuz ur nugs might get a weird taste. There are things u could use that may be better if you are this far into flowering
hers a excerpt out of an article in cannabis culture
Quote: There are several commercial miticides that can be used early in the season to kill mites.
Pyrethrum has been used to kill mites. It is a natural pesticide produced by a close relative of the chrysanthemum. The problem with using it is that many races of mites have developed immunity to it. However, it is the first miticide you should try.
Cinnamite comes as a concentrate that is diluted and sprayed on the plants. It contains a miticide derived from cinnamon oil. It is very safe and is rated least hazardous. It is quite effective but it doesn't kill the eggs. It should be used every three days for two weeks to make sure all the mites are killed soon after they hatch. It is a contact spray so plants should be dipped or sprayed on the leaf undersides. It is also effective against powdery mildew.
Neem oil is a natural miticide derived from the nuts of the Neem tree, which is found in India. It is a mite repellent as well, so some gardeners use it as a prophylactic, spraying it on a weekly basis. I mix neem oil with Cinnamite to eliminate small infections. Cinnamite and neem oil are also used against powdery mildew.
For growers who distrust anything commercial, try an ?herbal tea? that acts as a miticide. To each quart of water use a tablespoon each of ground cinnamon, ground clove and 2 tablespoons of ground Italian seasoning. Heat the mixture until it starts to simmer, then turn off the heat. Add 2 tablespoons crushed fresh garlic when the water cools to warm. Let the tea sit until it cools. Strain and save the water using a cloth or coffee filter. Add a few drops of liquid soap or dishwashing liquid to the water. It is ready to be sprayed on the leaf undersides. After spraying the mites off with water, spray it on the leaf undersides. It will eliminate the mites if it is sprayed every three days after the wash. Within two weeks the mites will probably be gone.
Avid is a miticide registered for ornamental plants. Its active ingredient is abamectin, a derivative of a toxin originally found in soil bacteria. Avid is not registered for use on vegetables except in certain restricted situations. Other brands of abamectin such as AgriMek by Syngenta are registered for a wide range of crops. The AgriMek label calls for a minimum of a seven day wait between application and harvest. I wouldn't use marijuana if I knew it was treated with this pesticide during the last few weeks of flowering.
--------------------
The time you enjoy wasting is not wasted time.
anything and everything i post on here is completely fictional and come straight from the deepest depths of the black hole which is my mind.
I don't think it's a nute problem, because it was fed last night, with a little extra N in it, because I was worried about the yellowing. I would have posted about it then, but without pics, it's all just speculation... So what about these, huh? Is this natural shedding of older, less efficient fan leaves, or does this look like a real problem?
*Edit*
I also moved the lights up from the Monster about 4 inches. With the increase in wattage above her, it looks like her tips were getting a little burnt.
I see a few possible problems.
What are you using for the micro nutrients?
From what I see... it looks like you have a potassium deficiency.
This will cause the edges to start to go yellow, then the tips and leaf blades start to brown and then progress to yellowing and brown dots on the leaves and the leaf tips curling.
The pics after the edit also look like an mg deficiency. Possibly also needs iron since it can yellow and cause brown dots also.
I'm thinking you might not be using something for the micronutes?
Have you been using calmag?
I also see that snow storm ultra is a potassium supplement 0-0-3.
Do you have/use either of those products?
--------------------
“If you want to find out who your real friends are, sink the ship. The first ones to jump aren’t your friends.” — Marilyn Manson
This isn't the correct place to confront me on anything.
Forum full of dead stars, and a necro I called Coma White
Quote: kickin-two-hundo said: hey before u do that, how far into flowering are they? if they are well into flowering, like 4+ weeks, the soap spray may not be a great idea, cuz ur nugs might get a weird taste. There are things u could use that may be better if you are this far into flowering
Well, three of the plants in the flowering room have been flowering for more than a month. I think there's three of them that haven't been in there that long. I was told that as long as you wash the soap-water off with regular water the next day, it should be fine. I'll be talking with my wife, and we'll see if we can get something that'll work better.
Quote: Laysthepipe said:
I see a few possible problems.
What are you using for the micro nutrients?
From what I see... it looks like you have a potassium deficiency.
This will cause the edges to start to go yellow, then the tips and leaf blades start to brown and then progress to yellowing and brown dots on the leaves and the leaf tips curling.
The pics after the edit also look like an mg deficiency. Possibly also needs iron since it can yellow and cause brown dots also.
I'm thinking you might not be using something for the micronutes?
Have you been using calmag?
I also see that snow storm ultra is a potassium supplement 0-0-3.
Do you have/use either of those products?
No, I don't have anything other than the three nutes I have listed in the main post. We're using Gen. Hydroponics nutes FloraGro, FloraMicro, and FloraBloom.
In the Gro, there's 2-1-6, along with a .5% of Mg.
The Micro is 5-0-1 and also has 1% calcium, .0005% Cobalt, .01% copper, .1% Iron, .050% Manganese, .0008% Molybdenum and .015% of zinc.
And the Bloom has 0-5-4 with and extra 1.5% Magnesium, and 1% sulfur as well.
We've been feeding about every four days. Each pot gets about 3/4 of a gallon before it starts to run out the bottom. In each gallon of water, I put 1 tsp of the Gro, 2 tsp of the Micro, and 3 tsp of the Bloom. That's for the plants in full flower. The two youngest in the flowering room get what the bottle call's "transition to bloom" nutes, which is 2 tsp of each Gro, Micro and Bloom.
We don't have Cal-Mag, but we can probably get some. Do you think that we need to start using that? I had thought that the FloraMicro was providing enough nutes for it, but maybe not... I don't know.
We do have a VERY small amount of superthrive, but I haven't even used that at all, as I don't know what exactly it's used for, and we hardly have enough to start using anyways... lol
Quote: kickin-two-hundo said: hey before u do that, how far into flowering are they? if they are well into flowering, like 4+ weeks, the soap spray may not be a great idea, cuz ur nugs might get a weird taste. There are things u could use that may be better if you are this far into flowering
Well, three of the plants in the flowering room have been flowering for more than a month. I think there's three of them that haven't been in there that long. I was told that as long as you wash the soap-water off with regular water the next day, it should be fine. I'll be talking with my wife, and we'll see if we can get something that'll work better.
Quote: Laysthepipe said:
I see a few possible problems.
What are you using for the micro nutrients?
From what I see... it looks like you have a potassium deficiency.
This will cause the edges to start to go yellow, then the tips and leaf blades start to brown and then progress to yellowing and brown dots on the leaves and the leaf tips curling.
The pics after the edit also look like an mg deficiency. Possibly also needs iron since it can yellow and cause brown dots also.
I'm thinking you might not be using something for the micronutes?
Have you been using calmag?
I also see that snow storm ultra is a potassium supplement 0-0-3.
Do you have/use either of those products?
No, I don't have anything other than the three nutes I have listed in the main post. We're using Gen. Hydroponics nutes FloraGro, FloraMicro, and FloraBloom.
In the Gro, there's 2-1-6, along with a .5% of Mg.
The Micro is 5-0-1 and also has 1% calcium, .0005% Cobalt, .01% copper, .1% Iron, .050% Manganese, .0008% Molybdenum and .015% of zinc.
And the Bloom has 0-5-4 with and extra 1.5% Magnesium, and 1% sulfur as well.
We've been feeding about every four days. Each pot gets about 3/4 of a gallon before it starts to run out the bottom. In each gallon of water, I put 1 tsp of the Gro, 2 tsp of the Micro, and 3 tsp of the Bloom. That's for the plants in full flower. The two youngest in the flowering room get what the bottle call's "transition to bloom" nutes, which is 2 tsp of each Gro, Micro and Bloom.
We don't have Cal-Mag, but we can probably get some. Do you think that we need to start using that? I had thought that the FloraMicro was providing enough nutes for it, but maybe not... I don't know.
We do have a VERY small amount of superthrive, but I haven't even used that at all, as I don't know what exactly it's used for, and we hardly have enough to start using anyways... lol
Floramicro probably has everything in calmag, are you checking ph?
It's probably just the potassium, I'm reading to treat one with a small flush using a mild and complete fertilizer. Severe ones would need a flush, but I think this just means just a decent amount of runoff.
It really looks like potassium to me, it even starts on the older leaves.
Potassium problems could also cause other problems with micronutrients.
--------------------
“If you want to find out who your real friends are, sink the ship. The first ones to jump aren’t your friends.” — Marilyn Manson
This isn't the correct place to confront me on anything.
Forum full of dead stars, and a necro I called Coma White
I'm just chiming in with a couple of pieces of advice. I apologize if someone covered these things already.
Rapitest makes a nice package that retails for about $15 that tests N-P-K and pH. You get four kits in the package (one for N, one for P, one for K, and one for pH). Each kit will test 10 times and refills are cheap. I find the color charts durable and easy. Even my wife, who hates chemistry, uses it to check her organic raised tomato & pepper beds. LINK TO AMAZON HERE. You should be able to find this at any large hardware store. I have seen them at Home Depot, Ace Hardware, and online. Since it is towards the end of the gardening season you may need to find online. I just found it listed under a different brand name. CHEAP at Amazon, especially if you use the free shipping option. LINK HERE.
Any garden that I have a concern about pests in I spray every 5-7 days with the following mix: 2 teaspoons of tobacco juice (1 cup of organic tobacco put in 1/2 gallon of water and allowed to sit in the sun for a full day - strain and remove tobacco after a deep brown tea has brewed) and two teaspoons of neem oil. I mix them both in to about a quart of water in a hand sprayer. I don't cook the tobacco tea or allow it to get too strong out of concerns of burning plants. This mix normally takes care of all bugs and worms and small animals. If I am going for small animals though I typically add in a little habanero juice.
-------------------- I am not a cannabis grower. I find the cannabis growers to be the most open to experimenting and sharing out of all of the different botany groups I enjoy. I frequently use the suggestions that I find to apply to own organic gardening and food production.
I just found out last night when going through the shed after turning the lights on that not only do we not have and Ph Up or Down, we don't even have the kit to test the Ph anymore either! Where these things disappeared to, I'll never know. My buddy insists that he HAD them, but now we have to buy em... lol
Now I gotta go shell out $30 for more stuff I really don't have the money for...
I just found out last night when going through the shed after turning the lights on that not only do we not have and Ph Up or Down, we don't even have the kit to test the Ph anymore either! Where these things disappeared to, I'll never know. My buddy insists that he HAD them, but now we have to buy em... lol
Now I gotta go shell out $30 for more stuff I really don't have the money for...
I just got some from amazon cuz mine disapeared too you can get the general hydro brand there for like 12 bucks and 4 shipping. it comes with the tester.
You could have locked out your potassium.
--------------------
“If you want to find out who your real friends are, sink the ship. The first ones to jump aren’t your friends.” — Marilyn Manson
This isn't the correct place to confront me on anything.
Forum full of dead stars, and a necro I called Coma White
Quote: CrayolaHalls said: Any garden that I have a concern about pests in I spray every 5-7 days with the following mix: 2 teaspoons of tobacco juice (1 cup of organic tobacco put in 1/2 gallon of water and allowed to sit in the sun for a full day - strain and remove tobacco after a deep brown tea has brewed) and two teaspoons of neem oil. I mix them both in to about a quart of water in a hand sprayer. I don't cook the tobacco tea or allow it to get too strong out of concerns of burning plants. This mix normally takes care of all bugs and worms and small animals. If I am going for small animals though I typically add in a little habanero juice.
Do you wash it off afterwards? And is this safe for plants in flowering?
Quote: There are several commercial miticides that can be used early in the season to kill mites.
Pyrethrum has been used to kill mites. It is a natural pesticide produced by a close relative of the chrysanthemum. The problem with using it is that many races of mites have developed immunity to it. However, it is the first miticide you should try.
Cinnamite comes as a concentrate that is diluted and sprayed on the plants. It contains a miticide derived from cinnamon oil. It is very safe and is rated least hazardous. It is quite effective but it doesn't kill the eggs. It should be used every three days for two weeks to make sure all the mites are killed soon after they hatch. It is a contact spray so plants should be dipped or sprayed on the leaf undersides. It is also effective against powdery mildew.
Neem oil is a natural miticide derived from the nuts of the Neem tree, which is found in India. It is a mite repellent as well, so some gardeners use it as a prophylactic, spraying it on a weekly basis. I mix neem oil with Cinnamite to eliminate small infections. Cinnamite and neem oil are also used against powdery mildew.
For growers who distrust anything commercial, try an ?herbal tea? that acts as a miticide. To each quart of water use a tablespoon each of ground cinnamon, ground clove and 2 tablespoons of ground Italian seasoning. Heat the mixture until it starts to simmer, then turn off the heat. Add 2 tablespoons crushed fresh garlic when the water cools to warm. Let the tea sit until it cools. Strain and save the water using a cloth or coffee filter. Add a few drops of liquid soap or dishwashing liquid to the water. It is ready to be sprayed on the leaf undersides. After spraying the mites off with water, spray it on the leaf undersides. It will eliminate the mites if it is sprayed every three days after the wash. Within two weeks the mites will probably be gone.
Avid is a miticide registered for ornamental plants. Its active ingredient is abamectin, a derivative of a toxin originally found in soil bacteria. Avid is not registered for use on vegetables except in certain restricted situations. Other brands of abamectin such as AgriMek by Syngenta are registered for a wide range of crops. The AgriMek label calls for a minimum of a seven day wait between application and harvest. I wouldn't use marijuana if I knew it was treated with this pesticide during the last few weeks of flowering.
Has anyone here used either the Cinnamite or this "herbal tea" they're suggesting here?
J20 made it to 17" tall (15 1/2" in the 3 gallon pot now) and was moved from our cramped veg room.
J18 and 19 are looking beautiful. Tank and I are doing an experiment on the two of these. I am trimming all lower buds and stalks to try and focus growth at the top of the colas on J18. Where as, Tank is only trimming enough to allow light penetration on J19. In about 2 months we will see what method we prefer for denser fuller nuggs.
J18:
J19:
The Monster has definitely got a problem with some sort of nutes but nothing that seems to be jeopardizing the flowering. We're gonna go out and get both Ph Up and Ph Down, plus a Ph test kit. So hopefully a week from now We will be exclaiming about her progress.
Pandora1 is coming along the best. She is beginning to look like a winter wonderland! The grow of this stain is so interesting. It almost reminds me of a palm tree.
Both J15 and 16 are filling in nicely. Ever since we replaced 6 of the 23W CFL's with 55W CFL's these girls are all getting a nice diesel smell with crystals to back 'em up. I cant wait to see the changes in the harvest with these ladies!
The Monster has definitely got a problem with some sort of nutes but nothing that seems to be jeopardizing the flowering. We're gonna go out and get both Ph Up and Ph Down, plus a Ph test kit. So hopefully a week from now We will be exclaiming about her progress.
It's looking like the potassium, which is slowing down the uptake of mg, mn, zn, and/or iron.
Potassium, Magnesium, and Zinc (zinc will have them yellow before it effects the tips the other two doesn't have to) all can cause leaf tips similar to those, from my pictures, and since potassium can cause problems with the others, I would say it is potassium as it looks like that kind of deficiency, effecting the lower leaves with dots and yellowing, and the top parts look a lot more like the mg deficiency caused by the potassium one.
--------------------
“If you want to find out who your real friends are, sink the ship. The first ones to jump aren’t your friends.” — Marilyn Manson
This isn't the correct place to confront me on anything.
Forum full of dead stars, and a necro I called Coma White
Quote: CrayolaHalls said: Any garden that I have a concern about pests in I spray every 5-7 days with the following mix: 2 teaspoons of tobacco juice (1 cup of organic tobacco put in 1/2 gallon of water and allowed to sit in the sun for a full day - strain and remove tobacco after a deep brown tea has brewed) and two teaspoons of neem oil. I mix them both in to about a quart of water in a hand sprayer. I don't cook the tobacco tea or allow it to get too strong out of concerns of burning plants. This mix normally takes care of all bugs and worms and small animals. If I am going for small animals though I typically add in a little habanero juice.
Do you wash it off afterwards? And is this safe for plants in flowering?
I do not wash it off if outside. If I am using on houseplants, I will usually mist with clean water in between. If you ever noticed a visible residue you could always spray some extra clear water. This mix is not thick by any means.
I am not sure what you mean by safe. I do not think it would damage the flowers in any way, but taste and smoke might be altered if used late in the flowering cycle due to presence of small amount of chemicals not produced by the cannabis itself.
-------------------- I am not a cannabis grower. I find the cannabis growers to be the most open to experimenting and sharing out of all of the different botany groups I enjoy. I frequently use the suggestions that I find to apply to own organic gardening and food production.
So we got the pH test kit, pH up and pH down, and a "Soil Master" meter that measures the Moisture, Light and pH levels.
We were wondering if anyone has ever had any experience with this meter, and if so how accurate is it?
If it is accurate, then we balanced the soil to about 6 tonight. We fed P1 Monster and J16. Th others still were wet according to the meter so we waited on those. Hopefully, we'll see a change soon.
Another question: Checking the pH of the water, do we do it before we add the nutes or after? I only ask because I was worried about the dark color of the nutes affecting the outcome of the pH test.
We tested the runoff from the first plant (the Monster) and it was about 5 so we up the pH of the water to 7 before adding the nutes and the soil then tested at about 6 on our new meter.
Quote: MrsGreenThumb said: So we got the pH test kit, pH up and pH down, and a "Soil Master" meter that measures the Moisture, Light and pH levels.
We were wondering if anyone has ever had any experience with this meter, and if so how accurate is it?
If it is accurate, then we balanced the soil to about 6 tonight. We fed P1 Monster and J16. Th others still were wet according to the meter so we waited on those. Hopefully, we'll see a change soon.
Another question: Checking the pH of the water, do we do it before we add the nutes or after? I only ask because I was worried about the dark color of the nutes affecting the outcome of the pH test.
We tested the runoff from the first plant (the Monster) and it was about 5 so we up the pH of the water to 7 before adding the nutes and the soil then tested at about 6 on our new meter.
Make sure to give it some magnesium.
Some magnesium + potassium with the ph balanced water should clear that up. I'm pretty sure the top is just the magnesium, but since you had yellowing at the bottom with some parts starting to brown it made me think potassium too.
--------------------
“If you want to find out who your real friends are, sink the ship. The first ones to jump aren’t your friends.” — Marilyn Manson
This isn't the correct place to confront me on anything.
Forum full of dead stars, and a necro I called Coma White
Ok, so, I don't think that the problem we had with the Monster is a nutrient problem. I wish I could post pics of what's happened in the past 24 hours, but I can't yet. Maybe by the morning I will.
The tips of almost all the leaves on the monster are dried up and dying. Now the leaves on the next oldest, J-15, are doing exactly the same thing, slightly yellow on the tips, then drying up to about halfway down the leaf blades.
I think this is due to the heat. We've been having a lot of heat here this weekend, and this morning the temps got up to 94 in the grow room...
The guy that we're doing this with says that in the middle of the summer he'd had this same problem (as far he could tell), and it was because the fans had been blowing this hot air over the leaves and drying them out, but only to the oldest plants. He said he re-arranged things so the fans weren't blowing across them. He said that this helped them recover.
Has anyone heard of this happening before? I can't figure out what is happening, and why it's only on the two oldest of the plants...
Threaded
Previous
Index
Next
Some of these posts are very old and might contain outdated information. You may wish to 
[Re: 
Edit 
Reply 
opens her up for more airflow lol 
