TheNewGuy's Thoughts for Making High Quality Bubble Hash - Hashish, Oils & Tinctures

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TheNewGuy

Registered: 02/07/09
Posts: 28
Last seen: 12 years, 8 months

TheNewGuy's Thoughts for Making High Quality Bubble Hash

4
#283691 - 09/20/09 11:53 PM (15 years, 2 months ago)

TheNewGuy's Thoughts for Making High Quality Bubble Hash

bubbleman has a great video online located here - http://www.pot-tv.net/ram/pottvshowse3815.ram

The Process
What is going on here is you will be breaking off these oily glands and separating them in water. It's like the saying, oil and water don't mix.

The Material

Some say frozen, others say dry... what to choose??? I'm gonna tell ya whats up... dry trim seems to crumble easier and therefor is not as good as straight from the trim job to the freezer, frozen fresh trim. dry trim can be used just fine as long as you understand that when the dry material crumbles, not only are the trichomes gong to be able to fit threw the screen... but the material that is crumbling, will be small enough to squeeze threw the screens as well. this results in a lot more contaminates in the final product. freshly frozen trim usually locks the chlorophyll in the leaves better and results in a more pure product. I believe this is due to the material still containing some moisture, breaking off the hash material while the leaves are still flexible.

Separate your material!!! if you have fan leaves & you have trim... don't run both of them together. run your sugar leaf trim, then run you fan leaves. mixing the two will result in a lower quality hash... still potent, but not as high quality as it will be when the material is separated.

BaD MeTh0dS?!?

Using three buckets, one to beat it in without a screen, pouring the slurry into another bucket to strain the 220µ screen, and third bucket with the rest of the screens arranged as normal.

Another 3 Bucket Method,Beating in 1 bucket without a bag and pouring into a second bucket containing the work bag. allowing to settle, then the work bag was removed and the bubble water got poured into a third bucket with the screens lined up from 25µ - 190µ as usual.

Pouring the bubble water back and forth between two buckets. The bucket being poured into contained 1 screen and was swaped out for the next size down in between pourings. -Thoughts anyone??? Seems like a waste of time to me when you could just use one bucket with all the screens.

Grinding your material into a screen door that is suspended above a 20 gallon bucket is not a good idea. Grinding your material will result in a lower grade hash due to the plant material that will mix in with your final product.

Not mixing long enough, 5 minutes is pretty weak, especially if your using the drill. If you are using the drill you are not after top quality hashish. The grade will be very high, but the secret to making top quality hash is to use very light and gentle agitation. Since using the drill method, plant matter gets ground into fine particals which are small enough to drain threw the screen. Since we are dealing with micron sized glands, it is hard to detect these plant particals with the naked eye. when gentle agitation is used the heads are frozen, broken off, and separated in the screens with minimal plant material in the final product.

Overpowered mixing tools, 2800 rpm Makita power drill. The tool was great and lasted all day long, the problem is the speed it was operated at made every batch come out green as cow shit.

Not Enough Water, not using enough water seems to make the mixture hard to stir. During the setting stage, the trim seems to create a thick patty along the top of the bucket and does not allow all the trichomes to settle threw the screens. Water is the solvent here and it's free, so don't be afraid to get the water level up the 2" from the top of the bucket. Any higher than that starts to leave a mess on the floor.

Not Enough Ice will be problematic. When The resin glands are cold they are easy to work with. when they are warm they become sticky and are hell to work with. the water temperature should be around 32-36 degrees Fahrenheit. The ice helps break off the resin glands as well as helps in the separation that occurs during the settling period. make sure there is enough to last threw a 2 hour period. if there sounds like there isn't enough ice, add more at any point between the mixing and the settling period... not during the screening.

Using these methods is going to yield some hash yes, but they are less efficient.

Too Much Material - too much material will result in a lot of the trichomes being sandwhiched between the thick layers of pot in the work bag. this will result in less yield due to all the trichomes not being able to reach the screens on the bottom of the bags.

The Right Way(s)!!!

There are two right ways to make bubble IMO. The first way is located at bubblebag.com. The second way is just a slight alteration of the original method but saves the work bag from getting beat up so much and prolongs the life of the work bag.

first get two buckets according to the size bag system you have (1,5, or 20 Gallon, also see below for using 7 gallon containers). place your bags in Bucket #1 starting with 25, then 45µ, 73µ, 90µ, 120µ, 160µ, 190µ, and last the work bag or the 220µ.

i don't think i need to explain why we use that order but i will anyways. in order for the separation of green matter & trichomes, you need to use your tools (the screens). the largest screen holes also known as the 220, holds all the weed inside the bag while only particles below 220 microns remain in the water. since there is a set of screens separating the bottom of the bucket, trichome free water & the water that the weed was agitated in... the screens hold the remaining particles. the screens must have large enough holes to only collects the size trichomes that are bigger than the screen, yet smaller than the last. so when you are pulling the 120 bag, you are actually getting matter that is 159 microns - 120. then you pull the 90 micron bag, you are actually collecting particles 119-90 microns in size etc..

Next, add 2-3 inches of ice, 3 & 1/2 gallons of water to the empty bucket (Bucket #2 A.K.A. The Work Bucket). Then add the trash that you want to turn into stash, into bucket #2. Add some cubed ice on top of the material to make a nice 2-3 inch layer on top of your material. Use your mixing tool to press the ice underwater and give it a quick stir before you start beating the material for 10-20 minutes. you want the material to be well saturated in a mixture of water & ice. Make sure there is enough ice to last until you're finished beating and that that there will be enough to last through the settling period. If you have to... add more while mixing.

Never use more than 250 Grams or 1 gallon of material in a five gallon bucket. The mixture becomes too thick and doesn't allow the trichomes to sink to the bottom during the settling stage and seriously reduces yield. THE KEY IS TOO USE MORE WATER THAN WEED!!! THIS EXPOSES MORE SURFACE AREA TO THE WATER & AGITATION.

1 option...

NOTE: Gentle agitation is the trick to getting the highest quality product.

Subcool uses a spoon to agitate extremely light/gentle. i've tried it & support it 100%, it's a great idea.

Another option is gently with low speed, agitate the material for 8-20 minutes with a mud slinger attachment that you can get @ hardware stores everywhere. In the event you have to ask someone @ the store... this attachment is used for mixing paint. 8 minutes is going to bring higher quality & lower contaminates than 20 minutes.

option three is a hand mixer from the kitchen. same as the drill, 8-20 minutes on low speed. less agitation time is going to bring higher quality & less contaminates. when there is more agitation time, some of the green matter gets broken up & can then fit threw the bags very small micron screen..

For those of you out there who are producing massive amounts of bubble hash a useful tool is the Bubblenow machine. This machine will save your back many hours bent over a bucket, and is a gentle agitator.

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If you're a cash cropper than you could mix it as hard as you can and not care about the green in the final product. If you are a connoisseur of cannabis like me and only after the highest quality product, then you want to agitate gently so you don't beat the crispy green leaves or chlorophyll into your fine hashish product. You only want the resin glands to fall into the screen, not the ground up material. You will get some ground up material in the 190µ-120µ screen even when done properly this is totally normal and these are known as the contaminate layers. Other grades are more sandy or golden colored as you work your way threw the 90µ-25µ bags.

Buckets
i have been using 7 gallon buckets lately

the 7 gallon containers allow more water than the 5 gallon does (obviously), but i don't increase the amount of material i use. 250 grams for the 5 gallon kit & i stick with 250 grams when using the 7 gallon containers as well. i just fold them over the lid just like a 5 gallon bucket & pour what water gently.

when you have beaten the material for 10-20 minutes, pour all the contents of the work bucket into bucket #1 with all the filtration screens. Now allow to settle for 30 minutes. During the settling period, I like to give the mixture a stir or two, every 10 minutes for a total of 3 stirrings during the settling period. Only stir the material around lightly once or twice, the point of this is to make sure that all the matter has a chance to allow the trichomes to sink and fall into the screens, not to beat the matter again... we already did that. try to be nice with it if you are going to stir because you don't really want to stir up the trichomes, just move the weed around.

When 30 minutes is up, lightly jiggle the bag up & down to get the water out of the bag. When the bag drains, clean the bag in the sink, do what you want with the material in it, and continue.

you could save it aside in another bucket and rerun the material again for a second wash but i wouldn't try it anymore than twice.

Note: On the [URL="http://www.bubblebag.com/products/bubblebags.php"]bubble bag website[/URL] it says not to squeeze the water out of the work bag because this prevents contaminates from entering your hash. They made 'em so I trust they have had countless hours researching such a claim so I go by the book on this one.

Next jiggle your 190 bag up and out of the water. When the water is threw the screen, use the bubble water to rinse down the screen to pool all the hash product into the middle of the screen for easy collection. Now flip the bag inside out and stretch the screen over a bowl and scrape the hash off the screen and place on the drying screen with a hand towel under it. Clean your screen in the bubble water while inside out so the hash is rinsed into the next screen. Rinse the spoon in the bubble water and continue to the next bag.

Repeat this step with the 160µ, 120µ, 90µ, 73µ, 45µ, & 25µ screens. When you get down to the 25µ screen there is no where to rinse the spoon so you have to just work the hash off the spoon with your fingers.

If you are buying your bags separately, I would recommend buying the 120 & the 25 bags minimum. If you can afford additional bags, the 73 & 90 would be the ones to get. The 90 & 73 screens separate the highest grades of hash. they collect the big fat trichome heads while dropping all the smaller resin heads, broken trichome heads, & trichome stems. The smallest screen (25Micron) is what collects these. It removes anything left in the water that is of smoke able value, that's why it is a minimum requirement in a 2 bag system.

119-73 Micron Hash notice there are only resin heads. - pic borrowed from bubbleman

72-25 Micron Hash notice there are trichome stems with very few amount of resin heads. - pic also from bubbleman

Now take the "pressing screen"( more on "the pressing screen" in a minute) and fold the unused half on top of the hash. Fold the hand towel over the screen and lightly dab the towel to extract most of the water in the hash cookies. The point of this step is to dab the water out, not to press the hash.

the pressing screen is a bad name for this product. it should have been called the dabbing screen because you aren't suppose to press the hash on this screen. many people confuse this because of the name. it is intended to dab water out with very minimal pressure to extract water from the cookies. the hash is going to be chopped next so pressing it would be a pointless act. just a heads up, it's not actually a pressing screen.

Now You have hash cookies that need to dry for a few days. cardboard is a perfect material for extracting water. simply peal the moist hash off the screen & place it on the cardboard.

The 190, 160, & 120 are the worst grades hash and some people even throw them away. you can cook with them as another alternative.

NOTE: Make sure the cookies are cracker dry or chances are they are gonna mold up on ya. Also the cookies shouldn't actually be cookies at all. they should be chopped up with a razor blade or knife on the cardboard. make sure it's a fine powder to assure it dries properly. I didn't break them up for some of these batches because i didn't know it needed to be chopped when made them, but I would highly recommend it now that i know.

Male plant hash

Grading Hash
The grades of hashish are as follows: 00 (Zero Zero), 0, 1,2,3. Zero Zero is by far the purest form of hashish and comes from plants that have high levels of THC in conjunction with a good hash-making technique. Sometimes the technique may be good but the levels of THC in the plant are low. This may produce a hash grade of two or three.

The quality of the resin glands will determine the quality of the hash that you will smoke. This is calculated based on the simple ratio of cannabinoids to vegetable material. In Morocco, 00 is used to describe hash that has the highest level of cannabinoids to vegetable material achieved by the extraction process. You can well imagine that this is the finest resin available compressed into hashish.

~Greg Green "The Cannabis Grow Bible"

The 190µ, 160µ, & 120µ are 3 grade hash. Very green, doesn't stick together very well, and powdery. The 90µ & 73µ screen hash is graded closer to 00 & 0. These resins suppose to be the best and usually are. This grade sticks together very well, doesn't feel very oily, and is usually a blonde or sandy color. The 45µ screen usually contains broken heads and stalks from the trichomes. This screen is usually graded at 0 or 1. The product feels slightly oily and sticks together very well, and is usually sandy, blonde, or white in color. The 25µ screen is very oily and is usually yellow or white in color and graded at 1-2.

Like said in the above quote... The purest form of hashish comes from plants that have high levels of THC in conjunction with a good hash-making technique. What should be a good batch of bubble can go wrong if mixed with a bad technique, so mix gently if you after connoisseur quality hashish.

some of the pics were "borrowed" from www.bubblebag.com and other various places over the internet. Good luck... I hope this was informative.

Edited by TheNewGuy (09/25/09 12:16 PM)

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