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 Harry_Ba11sach
cannoisseur
Registered: 04/20/08
Posts: 11,753
Loc: Nepal 
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 Re: Help me out with this grow room design.  [Re: BlzdLivng]
#282742 - 09/19/09 01:03 AM (15 years, 3 months ago) |
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lol dude why would I ever spend $1000 dollars on one of those things when I can build a custom one myself for cheaper, plus the satisfaction of working with my hands.
If you would like to do some research into the quantity of solar radiation hitting the ground every square meter I think you'll find that 600W for a 3x3 area is almost an exact fit.
also, T5 and CFL are different bulbs. they're both flourescent, but different.
And as has been said, CO2 is important for photosynthesis, but increasing the levels in such a small area is pointless, with a fan the size of what I'm planning it'll basically be like growing outside in fresh air.
sorry if this post is a little curt or tarded or anything...long night o' drinkin and jammin
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 BlzdLivng
Registered: 03/14/09
Posts: 54
Last seen: 14 years, 4 months
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Re: Help me out with this grow room design. [Re: Harry_Ba11sach]
#282747 - 09/19/09 01:33 AM (15 years, 3 months ago) |
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I was just giving an option. Those boxes are air tight and are preset up. Plug and play. Just a nice side thought. I've built my own before and love it, so don't get me wrong.
Well hps doesn't produce solar radiation. So I'm not sure what your talking about there. But the growers bible by Jorge Cervantes has a nice graph and explanation on pg 167. To sum it up: size bulb, room size, distance from plants) 250w 3x3 12-18in, 400w 4x4 12-24in, 600w 4x4 18-24in, 1000w 6x6 no closer then 24in. My reasoning for the 400w is you can get it closer without burning the tops therefor increasing lumens. It makes sense.
And T5's are a type of cfl. And CO2 helps plants grow up to 30x faster, regardless of area. you just need a better vent system because co2 produces water as a by product which would raise humidity. So basically if you had nice air circulation, yes co2 would be a benefit.
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mhbound
Ballin out at all cost
Registered: 09/22/08
Posts: 8,144
Loc: High
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Re: Help me out with this grow room design. [Re: BlzdLivng]
#282752 - 09/19/09 01:43 AM (15 years, 3 months ago) |
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HPS lamps do produce solar radiation I believe
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Suck my balls America
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Ero42oH2o
master of the bush
Registered: 04/30/09
Posts: 450
Last seen: 13 years, 9 months
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Re: Help me out with this grow room design. [Re: mhbound]
#282768 - 09/19/09 04:42 AM (15 years, 3 months ago) |
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LIGHTING!!! cut and paste
Metal halide bulbs produce an abundance of light in the blue spectrum. This color of light promotes plant growth and is excellent for green leafy growth and keeping plants compact. It is the best type of light to be used as a primary light source (if no or little natural sunlight is available). The average lifespan is about 10,000 cumulative hours. The bulb will light up beyond this time but due to the gradual decline of light, it is not worth your while to wait for the bulb to finally burn out. If you compare their lumen (brightness) per unit of energy consumed, metal halides produce up to 125 lumens per watt compared to 39 lumen's per watt with standard fluorescent lights and 18 lumen's per watt for standard incandescent bulbs
High pressure sodium bulbs emit an orange-red glow. This band of light triggers hormones in plants to increase flowering/budding in plants. They are the best grow lights available for secondary or supplemental lighting (used in conjunction with natural sunlight). This is ideal for greenhouse growing applications.
Not only is this a great flowering light, it has two features that make it a more economical choice. Their average lifespan is twice that of metal halides, but after 18,000 hours of use, they will start to draw more electricity than their rated watts while gradually producing less light. HPS bulbs are very efficient. They produce up to 140 lumen's per watt. Their disadvantage is they are deficient in the blue spectrum. If a gardener were to start a young plant under a HPS bulb, she/he would see impressive vertical growth. In fact, probably too impressive. Most plants would grow up thin and lanky and in no time you will have to prune your plant back before it grows into the light fixture. The exception to this is using HPS grow lights in a greenhouse or in conjunction another light source that emits light in the blue spectrum. Light sources that have a high output in the blue spectrum like sunlight and MH grow lights offset any stretching caused by HPS bulbs.
Now best part.
200 - 280 nm UVC ultraviolet range which is extremely harmful to plants because it is highly toxic.
280 - 315 nm Includes harmful UVB ultraviolet light which causes plants colors to fade.
315 - 380 nm Range of UVA ultraviolet light which is neither harmful nor beneficial to plant growth.
380 - 400 nm Start of visible light spectrum. Process of chlorophyll absorption begins. UV protected plastics ideally block out any light below this range.
400 - 520 nm This range includes violet, blue, and green bands. Peak absorption by chlorophyll occurs, and a strong influence on photosynthesis. (promotes vegetative growth)
520 - 610 nm This range includes the green, yellow, and orange bands and has less absorption by pigments.
610 - 720 nm This is the red band. Large amount of absorption by chlorophyll occurs, and most significant influence on photosynthesis. (promotes flowering and budding)
720 - 1000 nm There is little absorption by chlorophyll here. Flowering and germination is influenced. At the high end of the band is infrared, which is heat.
1000+ nm Totally infrared range. All energy absorbed at this point is converted to heat.
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All of the statements and posts I make or have made are fake. I just found all the pictures and copied and pasted them here. I am in no way associated with any of the materials discussed here. I'm just bored, and lame.
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Magash
The Feminizer
Registered: 04/21/08
Posts: 6,634
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Re: Help me out with this grow room design. [Re: mhbound]
#282769 - 09/19/09 04:42 AM (15 years, 3 months ago) |
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No stick with the 50watts per sq foot rule. 600watts is perfect for your space. I use to use a 400watt for that space cause I saw that piece of crap book by Cervantes also. (The reason I call it a piece of crap is you break out a light meter and you'll see the numbers he has don't match up to the rest of the world) The 50watt per sq foot rule is time tested and has been proven many meny times. 'Go below and your yields will suffer.
You'll get more lumens and all that crap with the 600watter. What is more important is you'll get the growth, the yield, and solid nuggets you want.
Your idea rocks now build it and grow 
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All creatures tremble when faced with violence. All creatures fear death, all love life. If we can only see ourselves in others, then how could we possibly hurt another creature?
 Join us at the Growery!
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coda
Registered: 04/20/08
Posts: 4,736
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Re: Help me out with this grow room design. [Re: Magash]
#282805 - 09/19/09 09:23 AM (15 years, 3 months ago) |
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Quote:
the 400w is you can get it closer without burning the tops therefor increasing lumens.
You might be able to increase some light penetration by getting your lamps closer to your plants, but you won't increase lumens. The only way to increase lumens is by using a stronger lamp.
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MFDoom666: sobriety kills my buzz every time.
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BlzdLivng
Registered: 03/14/09
Posts: 54
Last seen: 14 years, 4 months
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Re: Help me out with this grow room design. [Re: coda]
#282809 - 09/19/09 09:32 AM (15 years, 3 months ago) |
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right...i wrote that wrong. Either way im a fan of the 400 for a small space. why use an extra 200w if its not necessary. I get my hps close to my plants and no burn and GREAT yield. Either way i think you'll be satisfied, the 400 will just be slightly easier to control the heat in a smaller area.
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coda
Registered: 04/20/08
Posts: 4,736
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Re: Help me out with this grow room design. [Re: BlzdLivng]
#282820 - 09/19/09 10:07 AM (15 years, 3 months ago) |
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Well, honestly, using a large lamp in a small space is a GOOD thing. One of the best grows ive ever read about used a 1000 watt HPS using a SOG style in a 3x3 area! Of course the grower had to install a window AC unit in his grow room (which was a handbuilt room in a basement) to keep the area within reasonable temps. But with this method he was able to produce 2 1/2 to three pounds of pot every 2.5 months or so.
So, while using a 400 watt light may be adequate and produce well for you, increasing the watts per sq foot in your grow area will help you produce more! Like you said though, it's all a matter of your ventilation. If you don't have the means to keep your area cool using the larger lamps, then you shouldn't use them.
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MFDoom666: sobriety kills my buzz every time.
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Zippy
Needlepoint
Registered: 06/04/09
Posts: 750
Loc: Santa Cruz
Last seen: 14 years, 10 months
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Re: Help me out with this grow room design. [Re: coda]
#282822 - 09/19/09 10:27 AM (15 years, 3 months ago) |
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Quote:
coda said:
Well, honestly, using a large lamp in a small space is a GOOD thing. One of the best grows ive ever read about used a 1000 watt HPS using a SOG style in a 3x3 area! Of course the grower had to install a window AC unit in his grow room (which was a handbuilt room in a basement) to keep the area within reasonable temps. But with this method he was able to produce 2 1/2 to three pounds of pot every 2.5 months or so.
So, while using a 400 watt light may be adequate and produce well for you, increasing the watts per sq foot in your grow area will help you produce more! Like you said though, it's all a matter of your ventilation. If you don't have the means to keep your area cool using the larger lamps, then you shouldn't use them.
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Even a fish could stay out of trouble if he learned to keep his mouth shut.
Indoor Floro Troublemaker/ Troublemaker x WW grow
Indoor 1000w HPS Soil Grow- *updated*
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Harry_Ba11sach
cannoisseur
Registered: 04/20/08
Posts: 11,753
Loc: Nepal
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Re: Help me out with this grow room design. [Re: BlzdLivng]
#282827 - 09/19/09 10:50 AM (15 years, 3 months ago) |
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Quote:
BlzdLivng said:
I was just giving an option. Those boxes are air tight and are preset up. Plug and play. Just a nice side thought. I've built my own before and love it, so don't get me wrong.
Well hps doesn't produce solar radiation. So I'm not sure what your talking about there. But the growers bible by Jorge Cervantes has a nice graph and explanation on pg 167. To sum it up: size bulb, room size, distance from plants) 250w 3x3 12-18in, 400w 4x4 12-24in, 600w 4x4 18-24in, 1000w 6x6 no closer then 24in. My reasoning for the 400w is you can get it closer without burning the tops therefor increasing lumens. It makes sense.
And T5's are a type of cfl. And CO2 helps plants grow up to 30x faster, regardless of area. you just need a better vent system because co2 produces water as a by product which would raise humidity. So basically if you had nice air circulation, yes co2 would be a benefit.
Dude you're killing me right now.
HPS obviously doesn't produce solar radiation, because it's not the sun  HOWEVER, incoming solar radiation is measured in Watts per square meter, with the solar constant being 1346W/m^2. After atmospheric interferences, rayleigh and mie scattering plus particulate absorption you get almost exactly 500W/M^2 at the ground surface. in this case, my bulb is almost exactly the same intensity of sunlight as you would get by standing outside at sea-level.
The lumens thing has already been touched on so I'll leave that alone, but you should know that t5 is NOT a type of CFL. CFL and t5 are both types of fluorescents, but they are not the same.
I don't even know where to start on the CO2 thing. first off, CO2 makes plants grow faster only if they have corresponding increases in light levels and nutrients. just increasing CO2 is nothing but a waste of money.
CO2 does NOT produce water. Ever. there's no hydrogen in CO2, so it's a physical impossibility for it to make hydrogen without other chemicals around, either through combustion, respiration or photosynthesis. Plants consuming CO2 via photosynthesis might raise the humidity in an area but this is due to evapotranspiration through the leaf stomata, which is relatively unconnected with CO2 intake.
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Ojom
Registered: 04/20/08
Posts: 333
Last seen: 9 years, 6 months
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Re: Help me out with this grow room design. [Re: Harry_Ba11sach]
#283163 - 09/20/09 12:52 AM (15 years, 3 months ago) |
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Quote:
Harry_Ba11sach said:
this is going to be in the garage of a house that I own. the air will be standard garage air, but it will definitely be decently cool air during the winter. I may need to purchase a small heater in january, we'll see 
I was going to leave about 2 inches below the grow room for air flow.
Am I the only one that thinks 2 inches is a bit close to the ground if you're planning to use the floor of the grow space as your only source of fresh air?
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God
Yahweh
Registered: 09/26/08
Posts: 434
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Re: Help me out with this grow room design. [Re: Ojom]
#283323 - 09/20/09 02:17 PM (15 years, 3 months ago) |
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Quote:
Ojom said:
Am I the only one that thinks 2 inches is a bit close to the ground if you're planning to use the floor of the grow space as your only source of fresh air?
Sounds like plenty to me. Even if the air can only get underneath from one of the shorter sides, that allows for 72 in2. That's nearly 3x the area of a six inch duct, which tends to be acceptable.
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geokills
······· º¿° ·······
Registered: 05/08/01
Posts: 1,287
Loc: city of angels
Last seen: 1 year, 3 months
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Re: Help me out with this grow room design. (moved) [Re: Harry_Ba11sach]
#283423 - 09/20/09 06:13 PM (15 years, 3 months ago) |
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 This thread was moved from Marijuana Cultivation.
Reason:
Populating the new Grow Room Design forum.
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